rydra_wong: Tight shot of a woman's back (Krista of stumptuous) as she does a pull-up. (strength -- pull-up)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
I posted a write-up of my current workout routine in [community profile] lifting_heavy_things.

Linking here as it's focused on building strength for climbing and correcting muscular imbalances during the enforced time off while I recover from my Lisfranc injury, so I thought it might be of interest.
pellucid: (climber)
[personal profile] pellucid
I've been quite ill for the past couple of months and haven't been climbing. But the illness is now diagnosed and better, and today I attempted, at least, to make my triumphant return to the climbing gym.

Now I know that one has to be careful not to do too much too soon when trying to get back in shape, but it wasn't entirely my fault that there had been a comp at my gym this weekend, and the leftover bouldering problems were stupidly difficult, and my usual climbing partners were unavailable, so I had to boulder. Cue me, out of shape, not even entirely warmed up, pulling the hell out of a tendon in my right hand, about 15 minutes in, on a "V1" that was so not a V1.

I've certainly tweaked finger tendons before, but this is much worse than I've had in the past: the pain starts at the main joint in my middle finger and runs all the way down the palm of my hand into my wrist. It hurts with all movement (including typing, argh!). I stuck some ice on it as soon as I got home, but I'm not really sure what's best to do other than that. Anyone have a magic tendon-healing technique? Or is it just a matter of ice and rest and taping it up when I'm ready to return to the gym?

Mostly I'm just tremendously frustrated that I finally feel well enough to climb and then had to go and hurt my finger immediately.
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
(Especially for boulderers.)

I just wrote up a quick post on ankle-strengthening exercises, which can be used for rehabbing an ankle after a sprain or other injury, or for strengthening and stabilizing in the hope of avoiding injury.
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Since this came up tangentially in the Everything You Always Wanted To Know ... thread, I thought I'd open it up into its own post:

How do you look after hands that are shredded/scraped/blistered, and avoid having your climbing hampered by a skin shortage?

For what it's worth, my chief weapons are fear, surprise, and a fanatical devotion to The Dawes:

*Climb On Bar or Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream. I haven't picked a favourite yet; in my experience, either works very well for healing blisters and scrapes.

(There are various products on the market, especially in the US; what you want is a mildly antiseptic grease or goop, that will help heal the skin without softening it in the way that a water-based lotion can.)

The latter is a known trick of the trade for boulderers, and it never ceases to amuse me that I can have chats with hardcore rugged climbing boys about Elizabeth Arden.

*Finger tape! Very handy for covering up blisters, flappers, and abraded or frayed bits.

*Those Ped-Egg microplane grater things sold for shaving dead skin from your feet. Yes, it's disgusting (in a very satisfying way), but they're perfect for smoothing down callouses that have become hard or ridged, so you avoid them ripping off or having blisters develop underneath them, without losing the toughness of the skin.

What works for you?
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Strength training: bizarre yet awesome exercises you may not know about, part II

I'm linking this here because it's focused on forearm and grip strength and rehabbing elbow tendons, and thus potentially relevant to climbers.

(And if anyone has any other exercises they've found useful in those respects, please let me know!)


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