injury advice?
Oct. 25th, 2010 07:15 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
pellucid posting in ![[community profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/community.png){kind=small}
disobey_gravityI've been quite ill for the past couple of months and haven't been climbing. But the illness is now diagnosed and better, and today I attempted, at least, to make my triumphant return to the climbing gym.
Now I know that one has to be careful not to do too much too soon when trying to get back in shape, but it wasn't entirely my fault that there had been a comp at my gym this weekend, and the leftover bouldering problems were stupidly difficult, and my usual climbing partners were unavailable, so I had to boulder. Cue me, out of shape, not even entirely warmed up, pulling the hell out of a tendon in my right hand, about 15 minutes in, on a "V1" that was so not a V1.
I've certainly tweaked finger tendons before, but this is much worse than I've had in the past: the pain starts at the main joint in my middle finger and runs all the way down the palm of my hand into my wrist. It hurts with all movement (including typing, argh!). I stuck some ice on it as soon as I got home, but I'm not really sure what's best to do other than that. Anyone have a magic tendon-healing technique? Or is it just a matter of ice and rest and taping it up when I'm ready to return to the gym?
Mostly I'm just tremendously frustrated that I finally feel well enough to climb and then had to go and hurt my finger immediately.
Now I know that one has to be careful not to do too much too soon when trying to get back in shape, but it wasn't entirely my fault that there had been a comp at my gym this weekend, and the leftover bouldering problems were stupidly difficult, and my usual climbing partners were unavailable, so I had to boulder. Cue me, out of shape, not even entirely warmed up, pulling the hell out of a tendon in my right hand, about 15 minutes in, on a "V1" that was so not a V1.
I've certainly tweaked finger tendons before, but this is much worse than I've had in the past: the pain starts at the main joint in my middle finger and runs all the way down the palm of my hand into my wrist. It hurts with all movement (including typing, argh!). I stuck some ice on it as soon as I got home, but I'm not really sure what's best to do other than that. Anyone have a magic tendon-healing technique? Or is it just a matter of ice and rest and taping it up when I'm ready to return to the gym?
Mostly I'm just tremendously frustrated that I finally feel well enough to climb and then had to go and hurt my finger immediately.
