injury advice?
Oct. 25th, 2010 07:15 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
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disobey_gravityI've been quite ill for the past couple of months and haven't been climbing. But the illness is now diagnosed and better, and today I attempted, at least, to make my triumphant return to the climbing gym.
Now I know that one has to be careful not to do too much too soon when trying to get back in shape, but it wasn't entirely my fault that there had been a comp at my gym this weekend, and the leftover bouldering problems were stupidly difficult, and my usual climbing partners were unavailable, so I had to boulder. Cue me, out of shape, not even entirely warmed up, pulling the hell out of a tendon in my right hand, about 15 minutes in, on a "V1" that was so not a V1.
I've certainly tweaked finger tendons before, but this is much worse than I've had in the past: the pain starts at the main joint in my middle finger and runs all the way down the palm of my hand into my wrist. It hurts with all movement (including typing, argh!). I stuck some ice on it as soon as I got home, but I'm not really sure what's best to do other than that. Anyone have a magic tendon-healing technique? Or is it just a matter of ice and rest and taping it up when I'm ready to return to the gym?
Mostly I'm just tremendously frustrated that I finally feel well enough to climb and then had to go and hurt my finger immediately.
Now I know that one has to be careful not to do too much too soon when trying to get back in shape, but it wasn't entirely my fault that there had been a comp at my gym this weekend, and the leftover bouldering problems were stupidly difficult, and my usual climbing partners were unavailable, so I had to boulder. Cue me, out of shape, not even entirely warmed up, pulling the hell out of a tendon in my right hand, about 15 minutes in, on a "V1" that was so not a V1.
I've certainly tweaked finger tendons before, but this is much worse than I've had in the past: the pain starts at the main joint in my middle finger and runs all the way down the palm of my hand into my wrist. It hurts with all movement (including typing, argh!). I stuck some ice on it as soon as I got home, but I'm not really sure what's best to do other than that. Anyone have a magic tendon-healing technique? Or is it just a matter of ice and rest and taping it up when I'm ready to return to the gym?
Mostly I'm just tremendously frustrated that I finally feel well enough to climb and then had to go and hurt my finger immediately.
no subject
Date: 2010-10-26 02:22 am (UTC)I send you sympathy!
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Date: 2010-10-26 06:26 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-10-26 08:38 am (UTC)If the pain's running longways down the finger, sounds like a relatively simple tendon strain. I'd be more concerned if you're getting pain in the joint or the tendon pulley area.
Ice and rest and taping are all good. The only thing I can add is comfrey oil or ointment; massaging it in seems to accelerate the healing of strains and sprains, in my experience.
When you get back to climbing, it might also be good to spend a bit of time doing one-handed climbing: it's a fascinating exercise, and allows you to give the injured hand the odd rest.