rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Ashima Shiraishi (aged 12) has just climbed her fifth V13.

Rock and Ice report.

27 Crags report (with excellent photos).

Apparently she's now planning to have a look at Jade (currently V14, though it was originally graded V15).
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong

James McHaffie makes the 5th ascent of Indian Face E9


Caff's blog post about it, which also tells the story of his ill-fated attempt to onsight Master's Wall (on the same wall) as a young climber (warning: may cause nightmares)
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Awesome mini-film from Outcrop Films:

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk working on and sending Careless Torque

This line is legendarily difficult, beautiful, and scarily high.

ETA: I thought we needed a new tag. *g*
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee, have a Tweet: Twitter / MinaClimbing: Eek...I just did Careless Torque! :)

Translation: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk just did the first female ascent of the legendary gritstone highball Careless Torque.

ETA: Picture!

Hopefully it was caught on film; in the meantime, here's Ned Feehally on it a few years back.
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Tomoko Ogawa becomes the first woman in the world to climb V14.
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Just in case anyone hasn't heard:

Ashima Shiraishi has climbed two 5.14cs in the Red River Gorge.

And flashed 5.14a.

And is still 11 years old.

DPM has pictures.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
British Para Climbing Champion Fran Brown has just become World Para Climbing Champion Fran Brown.

Here's the news report from the BMC, with footage of her in the qualifiers.

And here again is the excellent short film about her.

ARCH REPRESENT.

ETA: Here's her winning climb.

MIIIIIIIINA

Sep. 7th, 2012 05:03 pm
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has climbed Mecca (French 8b+ -- the Rockfax conversion guide makes this a 5.14a).

UKClimbing.com report with photos (no video yet):

Mina's ascent of Mecca is the first of 8b+ by a woman on British soil, and makes Mina the second British woman to climb 8b+ after Lucy Creamer's ascent of Kalea Borroka in Spain back in 2009.

EFFORT

Jul. 10th, 2012 04:07 pm
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
James McHaffie Climbs 'The Meltdown' - 9a Slab?

F9a on slate -- Caff nails Meltdown project

First Ascent of Britain's Hardest Slab Climb

Background: The Meltdown is a legendary abandoned Johnny Dawes project from around 1990 -- Dawes came very close to completing it, but never quite did, especially after a crucial hold broke off. Needless to say, it's reportedly hideously technical and weird. Caff's been obsessed with it in the last few years, and says in one of the reports that he's spent more time on it than on any other route.

So: a project 22 years in the making, Britain's hardest slab, and a potential new 9a. This is a magnificently big deal.

(Side note: when used on foreign language reports of this, Google Translate solemnly re-translates "Caff" into "Cafeteria".)
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Ashima Shiraishi sends Crown of Aragorn (V13).

This puts her among 3 or 4 women in the world who've climbed a V13 (there's some debate about the exact number, owing to argument about whether traverses count and exactly what grade particular problems are, not to mention the mysterious way in which problems or routes often suddenly get downgraded after a woman does them).

Ashima Shiraishi is 10 years old.
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
UKbouldering.com are reporting that Katy Whittaker has done the first female ascent of The Angels' Share (E8 7a).

The route is a hanging slab with nothing by way of holds. Here's Adam Long's stunning photo of Michele Caminati trying it.

No prizes for guessing who the first ascentionist was; he explains in his book that the key is being able to fall off and move upwards at the same time.

(In case you were wondering, the "angels' share" is the part of brandy or whisky that's lost to evaporation in the barrel.)
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Since this is the last glee post of 2011, I'd like to vary it up a little and suggest that, as well as any particular climbing-related happiness of the week, people comment with some of the things that have made them most gleeful in the past year.

Whether that's personal achievements, amazing climbs by other people (famous or not), books/DVDs/other media, new gear or new climbing gyms or new crags, things you've discovered or learned, or moments of ineffable climbing magic -- share a few.

To enhance the glee: "The tent had blown away halfway through the trip anyway." The Wideboyz are interviewed about their epic trip to tick offwidth America (Rock and Ice lists their first ascent of Century Crack as one of the Top 10 Ascents of 2011).

I have a soft spot for the Wideboyz because they're two exceptionally talented climbers who've eschewed more obvious routes to stardom in favour of devotion to one of the most esoteric and (to some people) appallingly-perverted climbing specialties. And spending two years in Tom Randall's cellar.
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Lynn Hill climbing in Yosemite, talking about focus and body position when setting up for moves.

And apparently Hazel Findlay has just sent Golden Gate (5.13b) on El Cap.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Boulderer Ashima Shiraishi (who's now aged 10) has been tearing up the sport climbing scene in Kentucky, climbing numerous 5.13s, including one 5.13d and a 5.13b onsight.

Here's an interview with her where she discusses getting started bouldering in Central Park, and having to use different beta on Power of Silence from climbers who are over 4 foot tall.
emperor: Photograph of me climbing. (climbing)
[personal profile] emperor
Dave McCleod has been in Norway recently, and I've been watching his blog posts (available here as [syndicated profile] davem_feed) with some interest. He recently posted about his free ascent of the 400m E8 granite route "Bongo Bar", grading the pitches 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b. There's a short film clip in that entry, and UKclimbing have a write up here.

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