Glee for 2011

[rydra_wong]

Since this is the last glee post of 2011, I'd like to vary it up a little and suggest that, as well as any particular climbing-related happiness of the week, people comment with some of the things that have made them most gleeful in the past year.

Whether that's personal achievements, amazing climbs by other people (famous or not), books/DVDs/other media, new gear or new climbing gyms or new crags, things you've discovered or learned, or moments of ineffable climbing magic -- share a few.

To enhance the glee: "The tent had blown away halfway through the trip anyway." The Wideboyz are interviewed about their epic trip to tick offwidth America (Rock and Ice lists their first ascent of Century Crack as one of the Top 10 Ascents of 2011).

I have a soft spot for the Wideboyz because they're two exceptionally talented climbers who've eschewed more obvious routes to stardom in favour of devotion to one of the most esoteric and (to some people) appallingly-perverted climbing specialties. And spending two years in Tom Randall's cellar.

Comments

[wpadmirer]

My climbing glee for 2011 was finding a great partner so that I could climb regularly, and my first outdoor climbing trip. Two things that made my year of climbing the best ever!

The best thing I ever decided to do was take up climbing at age 55! (grin)

[rydra_wong]

\o/

[rydra_wong]

FIRST VISIT TO THE GRIT (also second visit, third visit, etc.). And first visit to Font, too, but the grit wins in my heart.

Masterclass with Johnny Dawes, holy shit.

And I was very brave and learned how to tie a re-threaded figure-of-eight and (theoretically) belay.

[wpadmirer]

That masterclass thing is SO cool! You've definitely had an amazing climbing year.

[emperor]

Sounds like a good climbing year - but do remember there is rock other than grit :-)

[rydra_wong]

I'll try to bear that in mind. *g*

Actually, one of my goals for this year is getting outside a lot more, and hopefully sampling more rock types. So there may be hope for me yet ...

(Or not.)

[foxfirefey]

I joined my nearby climbing gym and own my own climbing shoes! Now I just need to take some classes.

[rydra_wong]

\o/ What shoes have you got?

(Forgive me, I am a climbing shoe geek.)

[foxfirefey]

evolv Elektra VTR Rock Shoes! They seem to be pretty popular, I've seen other ladies at the gym wear them. They're not expensive and I really like the velcro--I'd never be able to fit them on my wide feet unless there was that wide variance in opening!

Ooh, good choice

[rydra_wong]

My first shoes were Elektras, and I loved them to bits (more or less literally, in the end).

They're disproportionately comfy, and very sensitive, which IMHO helps with learning footwork.

The one thing you need to know about is the Evolv Smell Issue; it's entirely manageable, just don't be surprised by it!

[wpadmirer]

YAY! That first pair of climbing shoes is the best. I've kept mine. I can't get rid of them. They meant too much.

[rydra_wong]

Oh, me too. They're well past the point where I could possibly get them resoled (giant hole in the toe, patched with duct tape), and I have other more technical shoes now that I love very much.

But I can't bring myself to throw them out. It seems so heartless!

[emperor]

Hehe, this year I got another pair of my first shoes, but a whole size smaller, which have broken in to be snug but comfy, whereas the old pair had got a bit sloppy. I can't bring myself to get rid of them, and they're only 5.10 spires, nothing fancy or technical!

[astridv]

Just back from climbing. Owwwww... no, feels great. :D First toproping, and I *think* I may finally have climbed my first straight 7, except the sign was a tad unclear. Plus it seemed too easy. But before that I'd practically raced up a 7-, so I figured tonight was the night to try one of the harder ones. Anyway, it was awesome fun.

And after toproping me and my friend joined two other friends in the bouldering cave and did some fun excercises with water bottles as weights. I tried to boulder for a bit more but I had reached the stage where I fell off the wall on really easy routes. So, mission accomplished. :)

[rydra_wong]

\o/ Yay for completely trashing yourself at the end of the year! *g*

[wpadmirer]

Ooo, Congratulations!

[fadeaccompli]

Early this year, I went to a rock gym with a local friend and visiting friend, mostly for the social aspect. They helped me into a harness, and offered to belay me while I flung myself at the easiest route on the wall.

I fell off the same hold three times, about halfway up. Got a little further, got stuck, asked them to take me back down.

"But I'll come back to it when I've rested," I told them. "Now it's personal."

And that's how I discovered that rock climbing is my kind of thing. I think it was about two months after that I had my own pair of shoes and a membership at the local rock gym... I remain not particularly good at it, but I continue to enjoy it, and I am (sloooowly) getting better. Who could ask for anything more?

[rydra_wong]

\o/ Yay for your first climbing year!

[wpadmirer]

Rock climbing is amazing, isn't it? If it's your sport, it's YOUR sport. (grin) YAY! for getting better.

[emperor]

I've been failing to reply to this, I think partly because I've not climbed since 8 December :-(

Still, with the obsessive-friendly tool that is my UKC logbook, I can put some figures on the climbing this year: 52 indoor sessions for a total of about 93 hours spent pulling on plastic. Outside, 46 successful climbs and two failures (one falling-off above gear which held, one failing to squeeze into a small hole on a silly route) including four clean leads of HS routes.

Beyond the numbers, though, it's been a great year for climbing; at the start of the year I was a bit nervous about going climbing outside without an instructor, but I've had some great times (and the odd mini-epic!) and even introduced a friend to the joys of trad :) I even have some Implausible Climbing Goals for 2012...

[rydra_wong]

No fair saying that without sharing your Implausible Climbing Goals! Or, if you'd rather keep them close to your chest, at least naming the silly route. *g*

[emperor]

It was the delicately-named "The Elephant's Arse" on Holyhead Mountain.

[rydra_wong]

AWESOME.