niqaeli: cat with arizona flag in the background (Default)
[personal profile] niqaeli
So I keep meaning to get a rice bucket and otherwise do wrist/grip strengthening exercises but I keep running into a really oddball problem.

Which is that everyone who's interested in improving grip strength this way pretty much assumes -- not without reason, to be fair -- your wrist extensors are relatively weak compared to your flexors and focuses much more on strengthening them.

I just have literally the reverse problem. My wrist flexors are relatively weak compared to my extensors, and I'm really feeling it when I go climbing (or do aerial). (The tl;dr version of how the fuck you get to this really weird place, strength-wise, is: over ten years as a massage therapist.)

So! Does anyone have exercises for the flexors, specifically, that they're fond of? Variety especially would be good; I get bored of conditioning super quickly if I don't have different things to cycle through.
niqaeli: cat with arizona flag in the background (Default)
[personal profile] niqaeli
I could probably google this, but I figured I'd ask around here first!

For reasons that are not actually immediately climbing-related (though I do want to get more into climbing at a point where I can afford to tear my hands up), I'm in desperate need of conditioning exercises for forearms and hand grip. And I could not think of anyone who would know such conditioining exercise *better* than climbers. (All other athletic endeavours I've been into before didn't particularly value strength in those areas.)

So! What are your favourite ones? Is there any equipment you find particularly useful?
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: in this video, an elderly mathematician takes a little gentle exercise in a park. Not quite holding a front lever any more -- but then, he is 75 and has severe shoulder arthritis.

John Gill, people.
rydra_wong: Tight shot of a woman's back (Krista of stumptuous) as she does a pull-up. (strength -- pull-up)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
I posted a write-up of my current workout routine in [community profile] lifting_heavy_things.

Linking here as it's focused on building strength for climbing and correcting muscular imbalances during the enforced time off while I recover from my Lisfranc injury, so I thought it might be of interest.
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
(Especially for boulderers.)

I just wrote up a quick post on ankle-strengthening exercises, which can be used for rehabbing an ankle after a sprain or other injury, or for strengthening and stabilizing in the hope of avoiding injury.
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Strength training: bizarre yet awesome exercises you may not know about, part II

I'm linking this here because it's focused on forearm and grip strength and rehabbing elbow tendons, and thus potentially relevant to climbers.

(And if anyone has any other exercises they've found useful in those respects, please let me know!)
juliet: (waveform tree)
[personal profile] juliet
I'm increasingly aware when climbing that one of the things causing me difficulty is that I don't have much upper body strength.

This was particularly brought home today, at the Arch, when I read the instructions about how to use their thing-above-a-doorframe-you-hang-on. "Hang with your arms slightly bent for 5 seconds", it said. I couldn't pull myself up sufficiently to do this. (I don't do quite as badly as this when actually climbing; but I've never been able to, say, do a pull-up.)

Will this just improve as I carry on climbing (she asks hopefully; to be fair, it has improved already), or should I be doing something more specific? Any suggestions? Things I can do at home would be good (if I pull myself up on the doorframe, will I hurt the doorframe?) as currently it is just too hideously embarrassing to try anything like that in public.

At least my legs are OK (lots of cycling!).

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