New Shoes & Shoe Questions

[fadeaccompli]

I finally bought my very first pair of rock climbing shoes: Evolv Defy VTR shoes in black. The website claims that they're good for beginner and expert alike, which seems a touch overly optimistic, but they do seem like good solid shoes for a beginner like me.

Now, wearing them barefoot makes for a much better fit all around. But I'm rapidly being reminded of why people usually wear socks with shoes: sweat. Lots of it. And there's not really anywhere for it to go but into the shoe. So... is there some standard or approved practice for cleaning climbing shoes out periodically, so that they don't just build up an eternal funk? I saw the staff at the gym using a spray on the insides of the rental shoes, but I'm not sure what most people do to keep their shoes in good, reasonably non-smelly shape.

Comments

[wpadmirer]

I'm interested in what answers people have as well. I'm about to buy a new pair of shoes, and I'm being encouraged to wear them barefoot. So...I'm trying to decide what to do.

[fadeaccompli]

I find that wearing them barefoot gives me a better fit, and better control in general. (And also makes it more comfortable to wear a sufficiently small size, which I suppose goes with "better fit".) And it seems pretty standard in the gyms I've been to... But my other friends who climb aren't around, so I don't really know who to ask for shoe care advice.

[wpadmirer]

I am being told the same things, better fit, better feel.

But I also see the people in the gym nearly fall over from the fumes in their lockers! (grin) Don't know if there's any cure for that. Though the gym does use a spray for rental shoes. I suppose that would do the trick.

[rydra_wong]

The website claims that they're good for beginner and expert alike, which seems a touch overly optimistic

Not that over-optimistic. They're not super-technical downturned wear-them-for-five-minutes-at-a-time-maximum shoes, but I've seen people wear them (and the Elektras, which are just a low-volume version of the same model) well into the "intermediate" grades in bouldering. I've only climbed a few V5s, and one of them was in my battered old Elektras (patched with duct-tape, even -- my regular shoes were off for re-soling so my Elektras got pressed back into service despite the large hole in one toe). So they're not likely to limit you until well after you've worn them out.

In my experience with the Elektras as my first shoe, they're really sensitive, good for smearing, and unusually comfy by climbing shoe standards. So if they suit your foot shape, the Defy/Elektra is a good choice.

So... is there some standard or approved practice for cleaning climbing shoes out periodically, so that they don't just build up an eternal funk?

Okay, I hate to have to say this, but: Evolv make many great shoes, but they are notorious for having a smell problem.

Apparently this is because they don't use some deodorizing chemicals in the lining that other companies do, because they think they're toxic. Anyway. It's a Known Issue. I mention this so you won't be taken by surprise, but it's not insuperable.

What helped a lot: getting those cedarwood shoe thingies (little sausage-shaped bags filled with cedar shavings) and stuffing them into the shoes whenever I wasn't actually wearing them. It dries them out and deodorizes them.

Because the shoes are all-synthetic, you can also wash them (which you can't do with leather shoes -- at least, I wouldn't risk it); I soaked mine in a basin of soapy water fairly often without doing them any harm.

A disinfectant/deodorizing spray like the one the climbing wall use should also help.

So, be prepared, but it's a solvable problem. They won't ever be fragrant, but everyone's climbing shoes end up a bit smelly (like trainers do).

[fadeaccompli]

A little smelly I can live with: I just don't want them reeking. So... cedar bags, disinfectant spray, washing. I can do this! Any idea where one buys those sorts of things?

[rydra_wong]

In my case, online. Though that is my answer to most problems in life. *g*

Since I realize "thingies" isn't very helpful, more useful terms to Google would probably be "cedar shoe stuffers" or "cedar shoe inserts".

I'm not sure where you're based, but Amazon definitely has them, e.g.:

http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Cedar-Shoe-Fresh-Inserts/dp/B000IF6SFS

[fadeaccompli]

And I can probably get the spray from a drugstore, come to think of it. So between the two and some occasional washing, should be something I can get under control. Thanks!

[emperor]

Hm, maybe I should try these...

[rydra_wong]

Equivalent UK links:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pack-Cedar-Shoe-Fresh-Inserts/dp/B000SYFG66
http://www.theholdingcompany.co.uk/cedar-shoe-fresh-prodpf_woo038/

Definitely helpful, in my experience.

[emperor]

Thanks! How long do they last for, DYK?

[rydra_wong]

Indefinitely, is my impression. I imagine they get progressively less useful as they absorb moisture (and the nice cedar smell diminishes over time), but they certainly last for a few years.

[wpadmirer]

Cedar shavings are doable! That's an idea I hadn't thought of.

[miss_s_b]

I use scented talc :)

[jumpuphigh]

I have always just used the occasional squirt of Lysol.

[emperor]

I'm afraid my shoes just smell a bit :-s I try and air them out between climbing sessions, which means they usually aren't too bad, but. On the occasions I forget and leave them + harness in a closed pannier for a week it's ... not so good.