The website claims that they're good for beginner and expert alike, which seems a touch overly optimistic
Not that over-optimistic. They're not super-technical downturned wear-them-for-five-minutes-at-a-time-maximum shoes, but I've seen people wear them (and the Elektras, which are just a low-volume version of the same model) well into the "intermediate" grades in bouldering. I've only climbed a few V5s, and one of them was in my battered old Elektras (patched with duct-tape, even -- my regular shoes were off for re-soling so my Elektras got pressed back into service despite the large hole in one toe). So they're not likely to limit you until well after you've worn them out.
In my experience with the Elektras as my first shoe, they're really sensitive, good for smearing, and unusually comfy by climbing shoe standards. So if they suit your foot shape, the Defy/Elektra is a good choice.
So... is there some standard or approved practice for cleaning climbing shoes out periodically, so that they don't just build up an eternal funk?
Okay, I hate to have to say this, but: Evolv make many great shoes, but they are notorious for having a smell problem.
Apparently this is because they don't use some deodorizing chemicals in the lining that other companies do, because they think they're toxic. Anyway. It's a Known Issue. I mention this so you won't be taken by surprise, but it's not insuperable.
What helped a lot: getting those cedarwood shoe thingies (little sausage-shaped bags filled with cedar shavings) and stuffing them into the shoes whenever I wasn't actually wearing them. It dries them out and deodorizes them.
Because the shoes are all-synthetic, you can also wash them (which you can't do with leather shoes -- at least, I wouldn't risk it); I soaked mine in a basin of soapy water fairly often without doing them any harm.
A disinfectant/deodorizing spray like the one the climbing wall use should also help.
So, be prepared, but it's a solvable problem. They won't ever be fragrant, but everyone's climbing shoes end up a bit smelly (like trainers do).
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branchandroot
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Date: 2011-06-09 08:32 pm (UTC)Not that over-optimistic. They're not super-technical downturned wear-them-for-five-minutes-at-a-time-maximum shoes, but I've seen people wear them (and the Elektras, which are just a low-volume version of the same model) well into the "intermediate" grades in bouldering. I've only climbed a few V5s, and one of them was in my battered old Elektras (patched with duct-tape, even -- my regular shoes were off for re-soling so my Elektras got pressed back into service despite the large hole in one toe). So they're not likely to limit you until well after you've worn them out.
In my experience with the Elektras as my first shoe, they're really sensitive, good for smearing, and unusually comfy by climbing shoe standards. So if they suit your foot shape, the Defy/Elektra is a good choice.
So... is there some standard or approved practice for cleaning climbing shoes out periodically, so that they don't just build up an eternal funk?
Okay, I hate to have to say this, but: Evolv make many great shoes, but they are notorious for having a smell problem.
Apparently this is because they don't use some deodorizing chemicals in the lining that other companies do, because they think they're toxic. Anyway. It's a Known Issue. I mention this so you won't be taken by surprise, but it's not insuperable.
What helped a lot: getting those cedarwood shoe thingies (little sausage-shaped bags filled with cedar shavings) and stuffing them into the shoes whenever I wasn't actually wearing them. It dries them out and deodorizes them.
Because the shoes are all-synthetic, you can also wash them (which you can't do with leather shoes -- at least, I wouldn't risk it); I soaked mine in a basin of soapy water fairly often without doing them any harm.
A disinfectant/deodorizing spray like the one the climbing wall use should also help.
So, be prepared, but it's a solvable problem. They won't ever be fragrant, but everyone's climbing shoes end up a bit smelly (like trainers do).