So I tried out the auto-belay

[wpadmirer]

My rock gym has two of the True Blue auto-belay devices. (See this website for more information on the device itself: http://www.autobelay.com/).

The check-off was simple:

1) Do not let go of the tether because it will shoot up to the device and then have to be retrieved;
2) Do not go around corners or try to go up a wall not directly below the device; and
3) When lowering yourself, do not bounce along the wall because it makes the machine bang against the wall and might damage it.

Yep, that was pretty much it for instruction.

I was given a harness that had a top loop rather than using my Camp harness which has a side loop. the reason for this is that the carabiner attached to the tether needs to go into the harness so it is vertical. The harness was a Camp Topaz Plus.

Climbing with the tether is just like climbing with a rope, except that you can't yell "take" and get a rest. In fact, if you let go of the wall with your hands and lean back, you go into freefall for a couple of seconds and then the machine begins to lower you. Once you're being lowered, it doesn't stop. You just go right to the ground.

Other than being startled by the freefall the first time, I found the lowering to be fine. It's slower than I usually do on a rope, and I could either walk down or just keep one foot against the wall lightly and let it lower me. It was a gentle drop.

What was exhausting was realizing that I could climb up again and again and again, without the usual break of belaying for my partner. After an hour I was sweaty and panting. This morning my left shoulder and elbow are sore from climbing so much.

I miss two things:

1) the social aspect of having a partner - there was no chatter, no laughter, no flipping anyone off who was talking smack about my climbing or lack thereof; and
2) the ability to stop, lean back on the rope and rest for a moment while I tried to figure out how to make a move on a route.

I ended up abandoning the formal routes after a while and just climbed. I tried to make all kinds of weird moves on the tether and found it worked fine. No matter what I did, it held me, the tension stayed steady and I felt safe.

So I guess I will be climbing using the auto-belay. I think I might actually get stronger on it quicker, because I don't have the luxury of standing around and bullshitting after I have just climbed.

Comments

[emperor]

I'm glad it worked for you :)

[wpadmirer]

Thanks! It's not as much fun as climbing with a partner, but it will do to get me on the wall more often.

[astridv]

That sounds like a decent alternative to climbing with a partner.

When I started bouldering, I had to learn to take short breaks between each try so I won't tire out too quickly.

[wpadmirer]

Yeah, toward the end of the hour I was sitting next to the wall, still tethered, until my heart rate dropped back to normal. It's insane how easy it is to overdo it when it's just you!

[rydra_wong]

*nods* Definitely worth making yourself take timed breaks (I'll actually use the stopwatch on my watch to make myself take a break for a minimum number of minutes).

There are assorted training plans (easy to find on climbing training sites or in books like The Self-Coached Climber) for endurance or power-endurance which involve taking a break for X number of minutes after climbing continuously for Y minutes, then repeating for several rounds.

the ability to stop, lean back on the rope and rest for a moment while I tried to figure out how to make a move on a route

My best substitutes: grab a hold on another route to rest, or use a much easier route to climb back up to my high point to retry the tricky moves.

Anyway, glad to hear it worked out so well for you.

[emperor]

If it's a leadable wall, you could quickdraw yourself to a nearby clip, too.

[wpadmirer]

Yeah, unfortunately it's not set up with bolts for leading. I wish it was. It would make life SO much simpler. (grin) But if they should set up one on a lead wall, I will do that. It's a great suggestion.