Friday glee is not entirely convinced by that mat arrangement

[rydra_wong]

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Ryan Pasquill onsights James Pearson's route "Power of the Darkside" as a highball boulder problem, then gets his finger stuck in the roof. Featuring the mat stylings of Dan Varian.

Comments

Ball, rolling

[rydra_wong]

I flashed a V4 for the first time!

Okay, I suspect the grade may be a bit soft, and it's a problem that happened to play to all my strengths (delicate bridging problem with minimal holds in a corner which let me flip myself around and do ridiculous back-and-footing), but it was a scary delight to do. Chimneying it old school!

Re: Ball, rolling

[emperor]

Awesome stuff :-)

[emperor]

I wonder if you have to reduce the E8 bit of an E8 6b you do above mats :-) Ryan obviously has good jamming skills...

My glee is still about limestone, particularly Symonds Yat; I got 5 good ticks on Saturday, and my climbing partner seconded up two Severes, which was pretty good going for their first time outside. The weather looks good for another trip tomorrow. I'm hoping to have a go at Vertigo, because it looks like an awesome view from the top :-)

[rydra_wong]

I wonder if you have to reduce the E8 bit of an E8 6b you do above mats :-)

There's an epic ongoing climbing wank about whether you're allowed to claim the E-grade if you do a route without gear but above mats, or whether the route should get a separate V-grade or Font grade instead. It seems to be one of the faster ways to start a flamewar on a British climbing forum.

I'm unable to bring myself to care very much, but that may be because I'm not ever going to be climbing at that level anyway. *g*

Yay for pinnacle climbs! That looks amazing.

[emperor]

Yeah, I can see it's an interesting question, but people get far too heated about it!

[rydra_wong]

I think it's important that people are clear about how they did a route, and I'm sure it does affect the experience and the psychological challenges.

But there's a weird metaphysical extreme where some people seem to feel that if you do a route placing lots of gear or you solo it or you do it with gear that wasn't available to the first ascentionist, it's all the same thing, but if you put a bouldering mat at the bottom, it suddenly becomes a a completely different thing and somehow you haven't really done the route. That, I do not get.

[wpadmirer]

Today I belayed a woman who was trying to top rope for the first time. She suffered a traumatic injury several years ago and has some weakness on her left side. She hopes that climbing will help strengthen her. I've volunteered to belay her.

It was very, very cool. She climbed the slab beginners wall 3 times and was very excited. I enjoyed it, too. So we're going to see if she can climb twice a week with me belaying.

After that I climbed for myself with Kim and I did the 5.9 route that I've been red spotting twice! I still can't put it all together into one smooth climb, but I get closer each time. YAY!

[rydra_wong]

Yay, excellent on both fronts!

[tea]

I went (indoor) climbing! For the first time since high school birthday parties! I finally asked my girlfriends if anyone was interested, after wanting to go for oh, three years, and they all said yes. So now I have a Regular Thursday Thing and muscles I didn't know I have hurt in the best of ways.

:D

I think I've seen posts in this comm on good exercises for strengthening climbing muscles, I should go track those down. My grip and forceps definitely gave out first.

[rydra_wong]

\o/ \o/ \o/

In my experience, climbing tends to involve muscles that very few other things do -- which is why they hurt like hell right now. *g*

It also involves a lot of small tendons, which get stronger much more slowly than the associated muscles do.

So when you're starting out, it's probably best to focus on climbing and acquiring technique (which will take a lot of the weight off your hands and arms). Grip strength will develop on its own. "The best training for climbing is climbing" is the usual advice.

If you want to do cross-training stuff, then something like yoga for flexibility and/or strength training that works the "push" muscles (to prevent muscular imbalances, which can lead to overuse injuries) would be a good bet.

[tea]

I was not anticipating that the thing that limited me the most was not strength in pushing/pulling *up*, but rather forward and in. However, I was pleasantly surprised that even though I have the worst hands with a lot of constant pain from the elbows to the finger joints, they actually felt fine - if not better - while climbing.

So I should train myself to actually be able to do push-ups, hm? Erm, yes. Good idea! :D

Yoga & stretching in general would be such a good idea for me, as I have very inflexible hamstrings. I can bend back very easily, but I can't even sit at 90 degrees with my legs out straight.

Thanks for the advice! Since I really just want to climb a bunch right now, the "best training" advice is just what I wanted to hear.

[rydra_wong]

I was not anticipating that the thing that limited me the most was not strength in pushing/pulling *up*, but rather forward and in.

That's a natural response when you start -- pulling yourself in so you're closer to the wall, and clinging on for dear life. But it's actually counter-productive, since (as you've found) it tires out your forearms really fast, so you lose grip strength.

As you get more confident, it helps to work on hanging off straight arms as much as possible -- that uses far less strength. Climbing technique is all about using your feet and your legs and your hips and your body position and anything other than your arms to do as much of the work as possible.

So I should train myself to actually be able to do push-ups, hm? Erm, yes.

I knoooow. But they do help balance things out. Useful link:

http://www.stumptuous.com/mistressing-the-pushup

Comms you might find useful:

lifting_heavy_things (for all kinds of strength training, bodyweight exercises included)
sun_salutation (yoga)

[tea]

Whoooaa. I am a physicist and when you pointed out the straight-arms thing, the force-body diagram popped into my head and said "oh, duh". It'd especially help with keeping feet on small holds by pushing into the wall rather than only down! Gorgeous.

Thank you for the comm links! I'm definitely adding them.

[rydra_wong]

Oh, if you geek out on force vectors, you will love this stuff so hard. It's one reason why I always get so excited about bridging problems: get the geometry right, and you can make holds where there are no holds!

I really rec a book called The Self-Coached Climber, which is a fantastic guide to the various strategies of climbing technique and why and how particular moves work (with diagrams!).

It may not be coincidental that John Gill, the guy who was instrumental in establishing bouldering as a sport in its own right, is a maths professor.

[emperor]

I love corner climbs! I can get my feet implausibly high, and push straight against the two walls, and then let go with both hands! It makes me feel like a Real Climber :-)

[rydra_wong]

Oh yes, no-hands rests definitely make me feel like I r SRS CLIMBER. *g*

Indoors, I keep wanting to bribe someone to bring me an espresso on a problem where I can get a no-hands rest ...

[emperor]

Hurrah :-)

I hate exercise, so the thing I do to improve my climbing muscles is ... go climbing...

[fadeaccompli]

I ended up going top-rope climbing instead of bouldering, and completed a higher grade course than before! I'm not sure if I went 5.7 -> 5.8, or 5.8 -> 5.9, but either way it was a higher grade than the lowest they offer in the gym. It feels like progress!

[rydra_wong]

\o/ W00t! That's definitely progress!

[hermionesviolin.livejournal.com]

I went rock wall climbing for the first time last Monday night.

I haven't had opportunity to go back yet (all of the rock walls are located places where it's not prohibitively expensive to own/lease that much space, but that also means they're places that aren't super-convenient via public trans), but I enjoyed it enough to be interested in going back.

[rydra_wong]

\o/ W00t! I'm glad you enjoyed it. Isn't it amazing? *g*

But yeah, logistics can be a pain. I'm lucky enough to be in London, which has lots of indoor walls -- but is a long way from anything resembling actual rocks.

[hermionesviolin.livejournal.com]

:) It is totes from reading your posts for long enough that I got tipped over into actually trying it out.

[rydra_wong]

*beams*