Friday (the 13th) glee likes scary movies
May. 13th, 2011 10:39 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
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The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.
N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.
To enhance this week's glee: When E7 is V7, a film about the increasing trend of doing gritstone routes as highball boulder problems. Appropriately enough given the date, it includes the terrifying Elm Street (E8 6c).
N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.
To enhance this week's glee: When E7 is V7, a film about the increasing trend of doing gritstone routes as highball boulder problems. Appropriately enough given the date, it includes the terrifying Elm Street (E8 6c).
My glee all goes sideways
Date: 2011-05-13 10:42 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-13 11:56 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-13 12:52 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-13 03:44 pm (UTC)Glee: This week I climbed my first 7- \o/ (dunno how German grades translate elsewhere...) I don't think I've climbed more than one 6+ until then. Normally I try to make no huge leaps to the next grade (that's how I injured my finger, by climbing a 6 when I wasn't ready). But I was looking at that shiny new 7er route and just knew I could do it. I couldn't resist. And really, it turned out easier for me than some of the 6ers. And it was so interesting to climb, a lot of variety within the route. :)
Congratulations!
Date: 2011-05-13 05:41 pm (UTC)And it was so interesting to climb, a lot of variety within the route.
I love it when you have really creative route-setting like that.
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Date: 2011-05-13 10:05 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-13 11:01 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-13 07:01 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-13 07:02 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-13 10:03 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-14 02:51 am (UTC)Bouldering seems to involve a lot of Falling Off Rocks, but I kinda expected that.
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Date: 2011-05-14 07:24 am (UTC)Bouldering seems to involve a lot of Falling Off Rocks, but I kinda expected that.
Yup! Basically, if you're not falling off a lot, you need to try a harder problem. *g*
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Date: 2011-05-14 03:16 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-14 04:55 pm (UTC)Oh hell yeah. It was months and months before I could do one; before that, my "sit start" was just a "sit". *g*
But once you start doing them, they help build strength.
And when my body starts going "No! We can't go any further! We're a whole foot off the ground and if we go higher we might fall!", I know it's probably time to wrap up and head home.
When I started climbing, it was the other way round; I had to promise myself at the start of a session that if all I did was traverse to and fro across the wall a foot off the ground, that was enough. Then my brain would get into it and I'd find myself lured up the wall.
Nowadays, I know it's time to go home when I'm sloppy drunk with endorphins and my body is going "Let's try slapping wildly at the next hold on that totally impossible problem! We can flyyyyy!"
Well, okay, I usually stay a bit longer, as it can sometimes be useful to try slapping wildly at the next hold on the impossible problem, but there's a point after that when I recognize that my co-ordination and judgment have vanished completely and it's time to go home before I hurt myself. *g*
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Date: 2011-05-14 06:05 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-14 06:37 pm (UTC)Yeah, to begin with, 45 minutes (including breaks) was about my maximum length session before I was useless. Now (for indoor bouldering) it's about two and a half hours.
So you'll develop more endurance as you go along.
Though it's also helpful to work on pacing yourself (something I should admit I'm very bad at). With bouldering in particular, it's easy to keep on trying and trying and trying on a problem and getting worse each time, when taking five minutes off can let your body recover.
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Date: 2011-05-14 06:41 pm (UTC)Is there any accepted "reasonable" amount of time I should be taking between sessions? I don't really have the schedule freedom to do more than three times a week, and it's more likely to come out to once a week, but I don't know if I should be taking days off between going, like with weightlifting, or trying to do it as frequently as possible, like with stretching.
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Date: 2011-05-14 06:47 pm (UTC)But you'll need to build up to that over time: start with once or twice a week at first.
Listen to your body -- when you're still feeling tired from the previous session and/or you have DOMS (delayed onset muscle soreness), don't go climbing that day.
It's an especially bad idea to overdo things as a beginner climber, even if you have the energy to do so, because your tendons need time to strengthen; stressing them too much too early can lead to injuries.
For me, three times a week is my max and I really need to take a day off in between sessions. I can do other stuff, but not climbing.
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Date: 2011-05-14 06:50 pm (UTC)