rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong posting in [community profile] disobey_gravity
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: When E7 is V7, a film about the increasing trend of doing gritstone routes as highball boulder problems. Appropriately enough given the date, it includes the terrifying Elm Street (E8 6c).

Date: 2011-05-13 11:56 am (UTC)
emperor: (Default)
From: [personal profile] emperor
I'm hoping to get to Symonds Yat with one of my climbing partners who has never been outside before. If the weather behaves, it should be good :-)

Date: 2011-05-13 03:44 pm (UTC)
astridv: (Default)
From: [personal profile] astridv
omfg, that video is incredible. Scary stuff, too!

Glee: This week I climbed my first 7- \o/ (dunno how German grades translate elsewhere...) I don't think I've climbed more than one 6+ until then. Normally I try to make no huge leaps to the next grade (that's how I injured my finger, by climbing a 6 when I wasn't ready). But I was looking at that shiny new 7er route and just knew I could do it. I couldn't resist. And really, it turned out easier for me than some of the 6ers. And it was so interesting to climb, a lot of variety within the route. :)

Date: 2011-05-13 10:05 pm (UTC)
emperor: (Default)
From: [personal profile] emperor
Is that UIAA grading? WP seems to think "The UIAA grading system is mostly used for short rock routes in Western Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary."

Date: 2011-05-13 11:01 pm (UTC)
astridv: (Default)
From: [personal profile] astridv
Yeah, I've done some googling and it looks like this is UIAA. In East Germany they're using an entirely different system. Heh, interesting, this is what it says about the East German one: The Saxon rating system, however, is not complete without the rating scale for Jumps. For those of you not familiar with the Elbsandsteingebirge , some routes require horizontal dynos. Most often, that means standing on one sandstone tower and lunging for a hold on an adjacent tower - bridging the void between them. Those jumps are rated using arabic numerals between 1 and 4, where 1 is easy and 4 is a very difficult jump. Personally, I almost wet my pants on a "1". I don't ever want to find out what a "4" is like...

Date: 2011-05-13 07:01 pm (UTC)
cofax7: climbing on an abbey wall  (Default)
From: [personal profile] cofax7
Thrashed my way up a 5.11.b the other night! I hung a lot, but I got all the moves.

Date: 2011-05-13 10:03 pm (UTC)
emperor: (Default)
From: [personal profile] emperor
That's pretty impressive! :-)

Date: 2011-05-14 02:51 am (UTC)
fadeaccompli: (risky)
From: [personal profile] fadeaccompli
I went bouldering for the first time this Tuesday! I only made it up one orange course (V0), but since it's the third time ever that I've gone out to do climbing, that was still pretty encouraging. The local gym's full of friendly people and interesting courses; I think I'll be getting a membership soon.

Bouldering seems to involve a lot of Falling Off Rocks, but I kinda expected that.

Date: 2011-05-14 03:16 pm (UTC)
fadeaccompli: (Default)
From: [personal profile] fadeaccompli
Heh. There were several orange courses where I ended up stuck halfway through, and finally just climbed back down. (And, alas, many more that I couldn't start without cheating. That whole sitting start convention is HARD.) But, yes, the falling off seems to be part of the thrill. And when my body starts going "No! We can't go any further! We're a whole foot off the ground and if we go higher we might fall!", I know it's probably time to wrap up and head home.

Date: 2011-05-14 06:05 pm (UTC)
fadeaccompli: (risky)
From: [personal profile] fadeaccompli
Ha! That is interesting. At the beginning of my time in the gym is usually the only point at which I successfully make it up something. I mean, I start with something easy, to build confidence, but even so; after an hour or so, I won't be able to make it up the course I went up the first time. The more tired I get, the more grumpy and cautious my body gets, until I find myself getting adrenaline responses to very minor slips.

Date: 2011-05-14 06:41 pm (UTC)
fadeaccompli: (determination)
From: [personal profile] fadeaccompli
So far, I'm only going bouldering with at least one friend along. (The gym requires spotters, though it doesn't actually enforce this.) So there's some pause limits in that if I fail a course, well, it's time to go play spotter for my friend anyway, and that gives me breathers. But I'm really hoping I'll develop more endurance soon; only being able to get one course properly per visit is so frustrating, even knowing that the traversing and flailing afterwards is helping me along.

Is there any accepted "reasonable" amount of time I should be taking between sessions? I don't really have the schedule freedom to do more than three times a week, and it's more likely to come out to once a week, but I don't know if I should be taking days off between going, like with weightlifting, or trying to do it as frequently as possible, like with stretching.

Date: 2011-05-14 06:50 pm (UTC)
fadeaccompli: (Default)
From: [personal profile] fadeaccompli
Ah! That's very good to know, and thanks. I have a hard time distinguishing between "discomfort means you're making progress, press on!" and "discomfort means it's time to rest, stop!" when it comes to new exercise types.

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