Friday glee and Angie Payne
Jan. 14th, 2011 08:39 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
rydra_wong posting in ![[community profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/community.png){kind=small}
disobey_gravityThe Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.
It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that a new climbing wall is opening near your house or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big.
Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.
To enhance this week's glee: Angie Payne talks about recovering from injury and sends a V12.
N.B. Feel free to post your glee in the comm on any day of the week. The Friday post is just to get the ball rolling.
It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that a new climbing wall is opening near your house or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big.
Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.
To enhance this week's glee: Angie Payne talks about recovering from injury and sends a V12.
N.B. Feel free to post your glee in the comm on any day of the week. The Friday post is just to get the ball rolling.
no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 11:16 am (UTC):)
My friends gave me a voucher for a training board for my birthday, and I found this baby at an online store, for a very decent price I think. I can't wait to try it out. Of course first I have to get it mounted to the wall somehow...
no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 11:25 am (UTC)If you Google "fingerboard mounting", there are lots of guides to different ways of fixing it over a doorway with minimal structural damage.
Talking of structural damage, you probably know this already but be careful and don't overdo it -- finger tendons take a long time to strengthen, and it's easy to over-stress them.
no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 11:45 am (UTC)Good tip, will do. Sometimes I wish I owned this house and didn't have to worry about leaving holes in doorframes and the like.
Talking of structural damage, you probably know this already but be careful and don't overdo it -- finger tendons take a long time to strengthen, and it's easy to over-stress them.
Oh, yeah. I'm really careful with my fingers. Even more careful now - last week I strained two middle fingers because there's a grip on that one 6er route at our gym, where you can just fit your fingers, and it's just out of my reach so I have to jump a little and turns out my fingers aren't strong enough for that kind of thing yet, where they have to abruptly hold the entire body weight even for a little moment. It's a little frustrating because most of the 6er routes I tried have problems like that are difficult for smaller people, and then you see the taller folks just grab the things with no problem. I decided to avoid those routes for another couple months until my fingers are stronger and I improved my general technique.
I've gone climbing twice since and picked only the easiest routes to go easy on the fingers for a while, and that was fun too. An easy route becomes interesting again if climbed three times in a row, I found.
no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 03:49 pm (UTC)If I've got finger issues on one hand (or one elbow or one shoulder), I've also been known to find a really really easy problem and see if I can climb it one-handed (using the functioning hand, obviously).
It turns out to be an amazing way of learning all sorts of things about body position and dynamic movement.
no subject
Date: 2011-01-19 09:13 pm (UTC)Thanks, that was good advice. I tried that today and that seemed to help quite a bit. I'll probably keep it taped up for the next few times to be on the safe side.
no subject
Date: 2011-01-15 04:51 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-15 06:14 pm (UTC)http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/Mounting_fingerboards.pdf
no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 11:29 am (UTC)It's only my second V5 ever, and my first since my epic hospitalization in 2009.
Like the previous one, it's kind of a statistical outlier -- a problem that happened to play to all my strengths. But it means a lot to get it, and it was a gorgeous problem.
And I'm knocking down more and more V4s, including some that really aren't my style (overhanging power problems).
no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 11:47 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 11:59 am (UTC)My glee today is that I on-sighted a V2 -- I have done this before, but I've been struggling with several of the new V2s on this lot of setting, so it was very pleasing to get up this one. (Blue, in the front corner of the left back area :) it involves a lot of bridging, which I like doing.)
Earlier I pulled a shoulder muscle slightly trying to climb one of the V2s on the overhang in the new part, but NEVER MIND.
Also: went climbing twice, which is always a good thing.
Also also: looking forward to Leah Crane's drop-in women's session on Monday! Whee!
no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 12:19 pm (UTC)The one that starts on the wave wall and then goes up and left and ends on the diamond-shaped volume on the vertical wall -- it's kind of invisible unless you spot the tags (or Yann explains where it is), because it consists of one orange foothold and then it's entirely volumes.
And it's all hip flexibility and weird contortionist hand-foot matching and balance stuff, so utterly my cup of tea.
Yay onsighting! And I'll see you on Monday!
no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 01:26 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-15 04:52 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-15 06:36 pm (UTC)(There are some route-length problems on the extended roof at the wall where I climb, and they kill me.)
no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 07:00 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-14 09:39 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-15 04:52 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-15 04:53 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-15 06:10 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-16 04:34 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-16 04:41 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-16 04:48 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-01-16 05:19 pm (UTC)