Friday glee. And LYNN HILL.

[rydra_wong]

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had a good time; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big.

Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

To enhance this week's glee: Lynn Hill on free-climbing the Nose, with footage:

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3

N.B. Feel free to post your glee in the comm on any day of the week. The Friday post is just to get the ball rolling.

Comments

[rydra_wong]

ZOMG you got to see the tunnel! I haven't seen the tunnel yet! It sounds so exciting!

Steve McClure was setting some stuff in the new bit (in fact, I think he was setting the tunnel stuff), but then Yann nabbed him to come and re-set the wave wall as well. There is some really evil stuff on there, including the most bloodcurdling V3 I've seen.

Re: dynos -- I dunno, as I tend to struggle with them too. You have to have enough hand strength to be confident you'll be able to stick the hold when you get it, and then it's a question of oomph and going for it (not my strong points).

There's the zero gravity deadpoint thing -- do you know that?

[juliet]

It is very exciting indeed!

Aha, I have already encountered the evil wave wall. There's a very nasty yellow V1 on there as well (nastier because I don't like the wave much anyway, I expect, but *still*). Gave up on it today after falling heavily twice. Next week!

I do not know about the zero gravity deadpoint thing, no. Explain?

(I think oomph & going for it are not my strong points either :/ )

[rydra_wong]

I do not know about the zero gravity deadpoint thing, no. Explain?

Okay. *is not sure if I can explain* You know how if you're swinging on a playground swing, there's that moment at the high point of your arc where you're suspended, "weightless", before gravity pulls you down again?

That moment is what is known in climbing as the "deadpoint".

The idea is that with a swinging or leaping motion like a dyno, you aim to land your hand on the hold in that split-second of weightlessness, just before you would start falling down again. If you time it right, it makes it much much easier to hang onto the hold.

Does that make any sense? It's one of those things that clicks as soon as you experience it.

[juliet]

That very much makes sense; thank you. I shall experiment next week.