Smearing

[juliet]

It has become increasingly clear that my smearing kinda sucks (it's OK in bridge-type situations, but on faces, not so much), and that I am also reaching a point at which this is causing issues (i.e. there's stuff I can't climb because either I will actually slip, or I *think* I will).

Any suggestions for improving this? I'll go back and look at my how-to-climb-better book, but if anyone's got any personal tips I would appreciate them!

Comments

[juliet]

I do have a slight tendency to reach up first and then use my arms for hauling, and I should watch that -- but I don't normally wind up smearing in that situation (I just get straight on up to the next foothold!).

I will contemplate this morning's (V2) problems a bit more, but I am pretty certain that at least some smearing is required :-/

[wpadmirer]

Smearing is definitely sometimes required, but I think if you rely on it too much you can wear yourself out unnecessarily. Sometimes there's nothing to do but smear!