Friday glee wrestles the cheesegrater

[rydra_wong]

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Chris Burkard is leading his best offwidth life. With bonus Honnold!

Comments

[wpadmirer]

I climbed on Monday, because I will not have weekdays to climb any more. It was good. I'm having trouble with my right hand because of the tendonosis and the osteoarthritis in the thumb. ARGH. But if I tape it up good, I can climb as long as it's not too crimpy.

So I climbed everything I could and worked a few that were past my skill level, but had a blast. I spent two hours climbing and just came home happy as could be.

[ivy]

Hooray, go you! (What do you find it useful to tape?)

[wpadmirer]

I tape my right wrist up tightly, and then continue the tape up my hand to the base of my thumb. I then run tape over the top of the space between the thumb and index finger, and tape that down.

That provides pressure on the tendon to keep it from freaking out, and support to the thumb that has bone on bone osteo. So there's less pain and greater grip.

[rydra_wong]

Yay climbing! And I'm glad the taping is making keeping things under control, at least.

[ivy]

Hahaha, I died at the cheese grater, particularly after my experience of a couple weeks ago. Glad it wasn't just me! Also I AM BUYING SOME FREAKING TAPE.

[wpadmirer]

Yeah, I don't see how you could do off-width without tape!

[rydra_wong]

Ha, in my experience offwidths require LESS tape because your hands are less likely to be the body parts being mangled! Though I haven't got into anything requiring the complicated double-hand/hand-fist stacks yet.

Long sleeves and ankle protectors are the most important.

(And remembering to take my helmet off. I cracked up at the helmet toss in the video because I did that very thing out of an offwidth yesterday.)

[rydra_wong]

YAY TAPE. Also if you tape up your hands you immediately feel that much cooler, in a pseudo-boxing sort of way.

[hermionesviolin]

I climbed twice this week.

On Tuesday, my belay partner went home early not feeling well, but I stayed and did some auto-belays and I still really don't like them (they're so unforgiving), but I did one auto-belay cleanly which I've never done before. And before she left I tried a new-to-me 5.10+, which I couldn't fully do, but which I felt good about the work I was doing.

I climbed again on Friday with different folks and re-climbed the hard 5.10+ and was able to do the section in the middle that I couldn't do on Tuesday. I still couldn't do the ending move, but yay, progress!