Tips on bouldering for beginners; also training at home with one foot

[rachelmanija]

I recently tried bouldering for the first time and really loved it. I'd previously done a little bit of roped rock climbing and enjoyed but didn't love it; I had trouble with the social aspects of needing another person every time I wanted to climb, and also with the ropes themselves - for me, the less equipment the better.

Unfortunately, on my second session I fell from the top of a route, landed on the back of my right foot (I think I overthought my landing and was attempting to correct my foot position the instant before I hit), and broke three metatarsals. Or possibly more. I'll find out more details when I see the podiatrist on Monday. I'm currently on crutches and a boot.

This has not put me off bouldering, but I will not be back for probably three months. In the meantime, can you please keep me occupied and inspired by supplying me with bouldering technique tips or resources for beginners, and any tips or resources on exercising at home when one foot is out of commission? I'd really like to use this time to work on my upper body strength, but I also want to make sure I keep generally fit. Inspiring stories of embarrassing accidents from which you made a total recovery would also be nice.

At home, I have a lot of floor space and dumbbells in the following weights by lbs: 5, 10, 12, 15, 17.5. But if you have a piece of equipment you think would be really good to have, I might be able to get it delivered. I also have gym access, but it's now a pain to get there so I won't be going more than once or twice a week. It has free weights and machines, but no arm bike.

Comments

[rachelmanija]

Thanks! (Sounds like the sort of thing I'd have done.)

I'm going to pester the doctor to get into PT as soon as possible. And yeah, I could definitely work a lot on technique without getting very high.

[rydra_wong]

And problems with sit-starts (where you start with your bum on the mat, hands and feet on the wall, and pull yourself onto the wall as the first move) are fantastic for building pull-strength without ever getting more than minimally above the mats; by the time you're "standing up", you're already done several moves.

[rachelmanija]

I'm sure Cliffs of Id has some. I'll ask (and ask for some pointers on them) the next time I come in. I can just imagine that conversation: "So the last time I was here I broke three bones in my foot..."

Incidentally, in addition to really nice walls and lots of them, there are pride stickers all over the place and the bathrooms/locker rooms have male/female signs but also signs that say, "Anyone of any gender expression or identity is welcome to use whichever rooms they prefer. Please be respectful of your fellow climbers."

[rydra_wong]

I can just imagine that conversation: "So the last time I was here I broke three bones in my foot..."

I suspect that as soon as the staff realize this is not a preamble to suing them, they will recognize you as a True Lover Of Climbing like themselves, not to be put off by a few broken bones, and share all their recommendations, training tips and injury stories.

(Also yay re: stickers and signs!)