Friday glee is not an advert

[rydra_wong]

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: The story of the Moonboard. Because the Moonboard is my new friend.

Comments

[hermionesviolin]

I was on vacation about a month ago, so I missed climbing that week, and I feel like I still haven't quite gotten back to where I was before -- exacerbated by the fact that the gym I climb at reset the routes, and I don't like a lot of the current routes.

But I had a lot more energy climbing this week than I have recently, and one of the 10A's I tried I initially couldn't figure out how to do the first move, but then my climbing partner climbed the wall and I tried it again and she had to talk me through a lot of the moves, but I managed to do them all -- and felt like I was learning things and developing skills, as opposed to the other 5.10A by the same setter we'd tried earlier that evening which she quit about a third of the way up and which I very much rainbowed the first half of because there was no way I could do those moves.

[wpadmirer]

I climb so rarely now (because I have to travel 90 minutes to get to a gym) that I am constantly frustrated by routes I wanted to try again being gone. (sigh)

But it sounds like you did a great job on that 10A!

[ivy]

I got back to my home climbing gym after a week on the road. I felt like I *sucked* on the road -- I was failing 5.8s where at home I can nearly always do the 5.9s. I have definitely identified what it was that was the difference -- my home gym favors larger holds and harder slopes, so you might be climbing up a serious overhang the whole way but you've got something good to hold on to. MetroRock where I was dropping in has much worse holds, and one of the slab climbs was just baffling in its entirety. (There was almost nothing in reach? You... levitate up to the next hold?) I sent a 5.10- at my home gym and felt better about myself, and resolved to work one route I won't enjoy with tiny crimpy holds every time I go climbing. That way I can still mostly do the things that are fun for me, but I'll do one thing that will make me a better climber. Maybe those will add up!

[wpadmirer]

Some setters definitely set for 1) taller people or 2) people who can put their heel over their head. I'm neither of those, so I simply can't do those routes. It's very frustrating.

I don't mind reachy, but I'd like normal human reachy. (grin)