friday post of glee

[sixbeforelunch]

With many thanks to rydra_wong for reminding me (I was going to do it this morning and then I, uh, didn't) I open up the Friday post of glee for any and all who want to share their pride, glee, or any other climbing-related happiness that they might have had in the last week.

I have gone yet another week with no climbing (*is sad*), so I will once again be living vicariously through the rest of you.

Comments

[rydra_wong]

My first ever double dynos!

This is what happens when you watch the Stone Monkey DVD too many times.

Okay, teeniest double dynos ever, but by my standards it's a huge deal *g*.

[sixbeforelunch]

\o/ So cool!

[pellucid]

I think I may finally be improving again, rather than just trying desperately not to get any worse!!! Woot!

Context: all through last summer I climbed lots and lots and lots, and by last fall I was in great shape, doing mostly 5.11's, constantly improving, etc. It was good times! Then between December and, well, now, I've been lucky to make it once a week, and more often have gone two or more weeks between climbs. The result has not been pretty. I've spent most of these few-and-far-between climbs doing 5.9s with effort, having to sit on the 5.10as, not even trying anything harder than that, and getting increasingly frustrated with myself and my schedule. But I've been a little more consistent the past couple of weeks, and today I made pretty easy work of three different 5.10as, did a 5.10c with fairly minimal fits and starts, and even made it halfway up a 5.11b (albeit rather ingloriously, and ultimately I was thwarted; but I'm counting it a victory--first 5.11 in six months).

I just really hope I can keep this up!!!

Also gleeful about this evening's climb: there was a new 5.11d with a move from hell--overhanging climb, and a crazy giant sloper, and an almost-dyno (depending somewhat on height) move from the sloper to the next hold, which is an itty-bitty crimp, footholds in all the wrong places--and everyone in the gym who climbs at that level was giving it a whirl. And in over two hours, no one got it (the consensus seems to be that even if the rest of the route is a 5.11d, that move is at least a 5.12a), but it was one of those great community moments when everyone was sitting around watching and encouraging and taking turns and such, and that kind of thing is something I always love about climbing!

[rydra_wong]

\o/

it was one of those great community moments when everyone was sitting around watching and encouraging and taking turns and such, and that kind of thing is something I always love about climbing!

Oh, I love that so much. Especially when you get that one route/problem that everyone's obsessing about, regardless of their ability level (it happened with the ninja two-hold problem at the Arch I've mentioned before -- everyone had to have a go at it, from the people who climb V11 to the tiny girl on the induction course who had to be lifted up so she could reach the first hold).