Friday glee wants to climb on granite now

[rydra_wong]

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: seriously hard bouldering in Japan Granite.

Comments

[wpadmirer]

My partner and I are back to our three times a week schedule, which is seriously going to help my climbing. I am amazed at how much flexibility I lost over the three weeks that she was gone!

In other news, I mostly conquered a new 5.10. I had one hold I had to cheat on and use another. It was a one finger pocket, and if I want to be type the next day I could not use it. So I used a small crimp that was next to it, so I didn't feel like I was cheating too bad.

[rydra_wong]

Yay three times a week!

And yes, I wish route-setters would save the monos for the routes that are supposed to be super-hard, where the only people trying them will have fingers of steel. Otherwise, the injury risk is just too high, for the vast majority of climbers.

(Okay, maaaybe if there's a gigantic foothold to stand all your weight on and you're using the mono purely for balance for a moment. Maybe.)

[wpadmirer]

My gym is actually phasing out all pockets because of injuries. I'm glad. This route has been up a while, so it will be gone - and I won't miss it.