One climbing expedition despite being on travel to a conference, on a paper deadline, and busy as hell in general. 'twas an eye-opener.
Hyper-Local Wall(tm) has inexperienced setters (undergrads) and about 40 feet(?) of horizontal bouldering space, bent around a corner. The space compression means that there are few problems that are difficult due to length; the inexperience means that there are relatively few problems that are difficult due to geometry rather than holds. (At least this is true at my height/wingspan. Most of the setters are 4-6" shorter than I am.)
The wall I visited out in SLC (The Front Climbing Club) has a ton more area, and their v0/v1 problems have holds that HLW(tm) would rarely use for anything above v0, but generally with geometry that I'd expect to see on v2/v3. (Or yes, it is totally possible to set something legitimately challenging re: balance with nothing but jugs.) Wish I had been able to get down there last night for a second session, but alas. Work called.
With luck I can get Sunday/Monday/Tuesday in this coming week before I disappear for family time at Thanksgiving...
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branchandroot
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Date: 2012-11-16 05:46 pm (UTC)Hyper-Local Wall(tm) has inexperienced setters (undergrads) and about 40 feet(?) of horizontal bouldering space, bent around a corner. The space compression means that there are few problems that are difficult due to length; the inexperience means that there are relatively few problems that are difficult due to geometry rather than holds. (At least this is true at my height/wingspan. Most of the setters are 4-6" shorter than I am.)
The wall I visited out in SLC (The Front Climbing Club) has a ton more area, and their v0/v1 problems have holds that HLW(tm) would rarely use for anything above v0, but generally with geometry that I'd expect to see on v2/v3. (Or yes, it is totally possible to set something legitimately challenging re: balance with nothing but jugs.) Wish I had been able to get down there last night for a second session, but alas. Work called.
With luck I can get Sunday/Monday/Tuesday in this coming week before I disappear for family time at Thanksgiving...