Yes, and when he describes it as "twenty minutes on the verge of panicking" (IIRC).
It's terrifying because MacLeod's always seemed exceptionally mentally disciplined (soloing 8c as training for Echo Wall, etc.), and has written so sensibly about risk management and the mental aspects of doing very bold trad climbs -- so if it's getting to him like that ... fuuuuuuck.
Here's a bit from an article Johnny Dawes wrote a few weeks after the first ascent:
Imagine the wall. It is a random-woven wire mesh, tilted so that it steepens towards its top. At the base two thick cables disappear in the turf. The lights in the town flicker as you touch the rock. Each move forms an electric circuit between your hands. As you move, you worry about the outcome of that move, the tension a dull hum. Then I make a false move and the rock barks out a spark. I try another hold - but which one to use? Use the wrong one and retreat may be impossible. The gear is poor and a bad mistake could mean a death-jolt full across the heart. So you move, taking note of your position and the holds, but as you move higher the voltage grows and amongst the myriad connections there lie false trails that can kill.
I went up with sticky rubber soles which do not conduct electricity and two friends who knew the score.
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branchandroot
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Date: 2012-01-31 07:36 pm (UTC)It's terrifying because MacLeod's always seemed exceptionally mentally disciplined (soloing 8c as training for Echo Wall, etc.), and has written so sensibly about risk management and the mental aspects of doing very bold trad climbs -- so if it's getting to him like that ... fuuuuuuck.
Here's a bit from an article Johnny Dawes wrote a few weeks after the first ascent:
Imagine the wall. It is a random-woven wire mesh, tilted so that it steepens towards its top. At the base two thick cables disappear in the turf. The lights in the town flicker as you touch the rock. Each move forms an electric circuit between your hands. As you move, you worry about the outcome of that move, the tension a dull hum. Then I make a false move and the rock barks out a spark. I try another hold - but which one to use? Use the wrong one and retreat may be impossible. The gear is poor and a bad mistake could mean a death-jolt full across the heart. So you move, taking note of your position and the holds, but as you move higher the voltage grows and amongst the myriad connections there lie false trails that can kill.
I went up with sticky rubber soles which do not conduct electricity and two friends who knew the score.