Things I would want from a safe and supportive indoor climbing gym:
1. Require all adult climbers and belayers learn to tie the entire knot themselves before they can get on the wall. No using a carabiner to clip to the harness. No knot, no climbing. At the moment, my gym only requires the belayer to pass a test, and kids aren't tested until they're 14.
2. I know some people like it, but I would prefer no automated belays. I want a person on the other end of the line. Having nobody to talk to or ask for support is very disconcerting. And it's more like outdoors--part of climbing for me is working with other people, learning to trust your partner the way you trust your equipment and your rope.
3. Lead climbing should be available, so people can learn about the sharp end of the rope.
4. Lots of mats in the bouldering area. Have some easy routes in the bouldering area, so newbies can get used to the idea without being faced with nothing less than a 5.10 on that wall.
5. SLAB ROUTES. I so miss doing slab problems: hardly any gyms set them anymore because the risk of injury is higher than on overhangs, but overhangs privilege people with really strong upper-bodies, whereas people like me are really good at slabs.
6. Lots of classes bringing new people in. A climbing gym full of hard-bodied 20- and 30-year-olds isn't very fun. Make it friendly. (Our gym does birthday parties and parents-belay on the weekends, and has a regular Free Guest night.)
What else? Nice locker rooms, a sauna, a full set of weights and aerobic equipment. I wish my gym had a nicer locker room, and the lighting in the locker room isn't very good for doing makeup before I go to work (need to make a suggestion about that).
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Date: 2010-10-23 10:00 pm (UTC)1. Require all adult climbers and belayers learn to tie the entire knot themselves before they can get on the wall. No using a carabiner to clip to the harness. No knot, no climbing. At the moment, my gym only requires the belayer to pass a test, and kids aren't tested until they're 14.
2. I know some people like it, but I would prefer no automated belays. I want a person on the other end of the line. Having nobody to talk to or ask for support is very disconcerting. And it's more like outdoors--part of climbing for me is working with other people, learning to trust your partner the way you trust your equipment and your rope.
3. Lead climbing should be available, so people can learn about the sharp end of the rope.
4. Lots of mats in the bouldering area. Have some easy routes in the bouldering area, so newbies can get used to the idea without being faced with nothing less than a 5.10 on that wall.
5. SLAB ROUTES. I so miss doing slab problems: hardly any gyms set them anymore because the risk of injury is higher than on overhangs, but overhangs privilege people with really strong upper-bodies, whereas people like me are really good at slabs.
6. Lots of classes bringing new people in. A climbing gym full of hard-bodied 20- and 30-year-olds isn't very fun. Make it friendly. (Our gym does birthday parties and parents-belay on the weekends, and has a regular Free Guest night.)
What else? Nice locker rooms, a sauna, a full set of weights and aerobic equipment. I wish my gym had a nicer locker room, and the lighting in the locker room isn't very good for doing makeup before I go to work (need to make a suggestion about that).