GO HAZEL, GO HAZEL, GO HAZEL

[rydra_wong]

Breaking news: trad climber Hazel Findlay has sent Dave Birkett's E9 route Once Upon a Time in the South West:

UKBouldering thread
UKClimbing news item

This looks like it's the first female ascent of an E9*, as well as the third ever ascent of this route. And it's a Birkett E9; for context, Birkett doesn't believe in the existence of E10s, and Birkett routes tend to get very few repeats as they scare the fuck out of most people.

I've posted these before, but here's Findlay on Rainbow of Recalcitrance and making an attempt on the ridiculously stupid (and I mean that as a compliment) Gin Palace. Matt Segal and Johnny Dawes provide belaying and moral support.

{*It's almost impossible to compare it with trad routes abroad as this involves translating from the British trad grading system, which leads inexorably to wank. "It's very hard and dangerous" is the best I feel able to venture.}