rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
rydra_wong ([personal profile] rydra_wong) wrote in [community profile] disobey_gravity2011-05-13 10:39 am
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Friday (the 13th) glee likes scary movies

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: When E7 is V7, a film about the increasing trend of doing gritstone routes as highball boulder problems. Appropriately enough given the date, it includes the terrifying Elm Street (E8 6c).
astridv: (Default)

[personal profile] astridv 2011-05-13 03:44 pm (UTC)(link)
omfg, that video is incredible. Scary stuff, too!

Glee: This week I climbed my first 7- \o/ (dunno how German grades translate elsewhere...) I don't think I've climbed more than one 6+ until then. Normally I try to make no huge leaps to the next grade (that's how I injured my finger, by climbing a 6 when I wasn't ready). But I was looking at that shiny new 7er route and just knew I could do it. I couldn't resist. And really, it turned out easier for me than some of the 6ers. And it was so interesting to climb, a lot of variety within the route. :)
emperor: (Default)

[personal profile] emperor 2011-05-13 10:05 pm (UTC)(link)
Is that UIAA grading? WP seems to think "The UIAA grading system is mostly used for short rock routes in Western Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary."
astridv: (Default)

[personal profile] astridv 2011-05-13 11:01 pm (UTC)(link)
Yeah, I've done some googling and it looks like this is UIAA. In East Germany they're using an entirely different system. Heh, interesting, this is what it says about the East German one: The Saxon rating system, however, is not complete without the rating scale for Jumps. For those of you not familiar with the Elbsandsteingebirge , some routes require horizontal dynos. Most often, that means standing on one sandstone tower and lunging for a hold on an adjacent tower - bridging the void between them. Those jumps are rated using arabic numerals between 1 and 4, where 1 is easy and 4 is a very difficult jump. Personally, I almost wet my pants on a "1". I don't ever want to find out what a "4" is like...