rydra_wong (
rydra_wong) wrote in
disobey_gravity2011-04-08 09:03 am
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Friday glee has very small hands
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.
It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.
To enhance this week's glee: Ashima Shiraishi is more hardcore than you. Note: she's recently sent Chablanke (V11/12). Aged 9.
I would like to be her when I grow up.
It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.
To enhance this week's glee: Ashima Shiraishi is more hardcore than you. Note: she's recently sent Chablanke (V11/12). Aged 9.
I would like to be her when I grow up.
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I'm currently working on a route round the structure... I have managed 1/3 so far, but the remaining parts are difficult! Lots of challenges. :)
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I think I could probably wear them outdoors on a multi-pitch route, but I suspect I would chew through the rubber on the rand really quickly. I'll probably resole them in something a bit harder, when the time comes.
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But they are lovely shoes, especially for tiny edges; I can stand on things I just can't with my other (also lovely) shoes.
ETA: Sportiva's website tells me that the Miura lace-ups have different rubber from the velcros, but I don't know how much difference that makes.
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Last night, though, I finally worked myself up to try some 5.10- routes; I've been on the eights and most nines for a while, but I have surgery coming up in a couple weeks and will be off the walls for at least three weeks, and I decided I was going to climb a ten before that happened.
I am now bruised and scraped and sore, and entirely failed to get more than halfway up any of the pitches I tried, but I am pretty sure that if I start when I'm still fresh, instead of waiting until I'm starting to get tired, a minus is in reach, and if I pick the right one, maybe even a plus. Woot.
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I am pretty sure that if I start when I'm still fresh, instead of waiting until I'm starting to get tired, a minus is in reach, and if I pick the right one, maybe even a plus.
Oh yeah. Try it first thing next session (well, first thing after warming up on some easier stuff), and I bet you'll be amazed by the results. I'll cross my fingers for good luck with that and with the surgery!
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New wall was fun; it will not replace the Arch in my heart, but it has scary high top-outs, which I know I need to work on.
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