rydra_wong (
rydra_wong) wrote in
disobey_gravity2015-06-12 08:50 am
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Friday glee is not going to make any "moon" puns
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.
It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.
N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.
To enhance this week's glee: shortly before his 49th birthday, Ben Moon climbed Rainshadow, his second 9a (since his route Hubble -- considered at the time the world's first 8c+ -- is now widely thought to be 9a).
Here's an interview with him about it.
And here's some footage of Steve McClure on Rainshadow.
It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.
N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.
To enhance this week's glee: shortly before his 49th birthday, Ben Moon climbed Rainshadow, his second 9a (since his route Hubble -- considered at the time the world's first 8c+ -- is now widely thought to be 9a).
Here's an interview with him about it.
And here's some footage of Steve McClure on Rainshadow.
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tricams? Scary...
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Sunday: White Streak/Honeysuckle Corner and Dorcon at Craig yr Wrysgan (in the Moelwyns).
If I hadn't found that the tricam would seat itself beautifully in a little slot that would take nothing else, I might still be on top of Craig yr Wrysgan trying to build a belay. I was actually really impressed by how solid it seemed.
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Last week was spent in Provence, sport-climbing on limestone. Despite it being baking hot, and there being a lot of sandbags, I had a really good trip, and climbed a load of routes (30 ascents, 20 ticks). Any my fingertips and feet have almost recovered now :)
And then to cap it all, this week I got my project route at Harlow, which is my first F7a :-)
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Also: I know a disturbing amount about elbow tendonitis and different ways of fixing it -- sounds like you've got it covered, but I can geek out about this endlessly.
(Incidentally, Dave MacLeod's new book Make or Break is a fantastic resource re: all sorts of climbing-related injuries. I need to write a review for the comm at some point.)
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Do you have any climbing-related training you can do? I find that if I can't climb, it sometimes cheers me up to do something which I can tell myself will make me better at climbing. But that may be me being weird.
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