Friday glee knew there would be video

[rydra_wong]

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Ashima Shiraishi on Open Your Mind Direct, 9a/9a+?, in Santa Linya.

Comments

[wpadmirer]

I am going climbing today for the first time in a couple of weeks. My partner is back in town! YAY!

[emperor]

I hope 't was good :)

[wpadmirer]

It was good. There were a bunch of new routes, so I did several new 5.8s (one on an overhang), and a 5.10. Not bad after being away for a couple of weeks.

[emperor]

Despite the poor forecast, I had some good climbing in Wales - on Saturday we got 5 short climbs in on the crag just outside Betws-y-Coed before the rain really set in, and on Sunday we climbed the Pulpit Route on Milestone Buttress. Win :-)

[wpadmirer]

Cool! It sounds like good climbing was done!

[rydra_wong]

Hey, I ended up in Wales too! Only got climbing done on Monday, though, when we made it to Tremadog.

Sunday we got lured to Holyhead because of reports of sunshine which turned out to be false -- it was white-out fog -- and Saturday we dangled off the beams at the hut learning self-rescue and escaping the system.

Also a win, in my book!

ETA: How was the Pulpit Route? I've not made it to Tryfan yet.

[emperor]

I was actually there the previous weekend (i.e. before the bank holiday); I should probably have been clearer! I've never got closer to Tremadog than the Moelwyns.

I cross-posted my LJ entry about the climbing trip, so you can see it here. I think the TL;DR summary is - it's quite easy apart from the scary move out of the top of the P4 chimney (which isn't hard, but is scary), don't attempt it carrying a large bag, and expect to abseil down the descent gully.

[rydra_wong]

This was only my second visit to Wales, but Tremadog is amaaaaazing (and also wins top marks for roadside convenience and the chance to visit the holy shrine that is Eric Jones's cafe).

don't attempt it carrying a large bag, and expect to abseil down the descent gully.

Good information to have! I find that some guidebooks have a definition of "descent gully" which is ... interesting. And does not match my perception of what I can reasonably descend without a) a rope, or b) dying.