rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
rydra_wong ([personal profile] rydra_wong) wrote in [community profile] disobey_gravity 2011-08-24 04:08 pm (UTC)

Which means that the walls with the steeper overhang and slippier holds are the ones which I also feel the least secure about dropping from.

It might (or might not) help to know that, counter-intuitively, the overhangs are actually considered safer to fall off, because you fall cleanly to the mats without any danger of bumping into holds on the way down.

Similarly, I've heard that route-setters like to put big moves at the top of a problem because it's safer to fall from there than it is from the middle -- you're more likely to be able to right yourself and land properly. Sprains and so forth often occur with very short falls and uneven landings.

ETA: Yes, I totally get the thing about having different fear levels with different walls. There's one wall with a vertical wave-shaped curve that always freaks me out more than any of the others, possibly because it tends to force really awkward positions.

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