wpadmirer: (Default)
wpadmirer ([personal profile] wpadmirer) wrote in [community profile] disobey_gravity 2010-10-12 01:07 pm (UTC)

I've got a friend who smears a lot, and what we've realized (me and my other partner watching him, and him from listening to us) is that he smears rather than trying to place his feet in a position to reach the next hold. That he's using muscle instead of technique.

So we spend a lot of time yelling up at him, 'Feet first!" Meaning, looking for good foot placement before you reach up to the higher hold. I don't know if that will help you, but the people teaching me keep telling me over and over and over that footwork is the key - that if I move my feet first, I won't have to smear as much - because I won't be stretching so much for a hold.

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