ilanarama: a mountain (mountain)
Ilana ([personal profile] ilanarama) wrote in [community profile] disobey_gravity 2010-09-09 06:32 pm (UTC)

I'm an old and semi-retired climber. I started in about 1989 when I dated (and eventually married) a climber, although I learned better from other people and ended up climbing with him only about half the time. I am pretty much strictly a trad climber, although I'd go to the gym in the winter, and my favorite type of climbing is multipitch on big peaks, although I have never done (nor really wanted to do) the multiday big wall type stuff. Probably my favorite and most spectacular climbs were Hallett Peak and the Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park, and the Durrance route up Devil's Tower. At my peak I was leading 5.9 and following/TR'ing 5.10c or so, but I haven't climbed much in the last 10 years (due to moving away from good climbing areas, and becoming obsessed with other activities) and am not nearly so good any more.

Here's a picture of me leading the 5.8 second pitch of Ruper, a stellar long climb in Eldorado Canyon near Boulder, Colorado:



I hate bouldering, because I'm scared of falling without a rope. I have taken 2 lead falls and they were both terrifying. I like toproping, because you can fall all you want. I like stemming and laybacks. I hate crimpers. I love it when the key to making a move is to figure out the right way to balance your body - maybe you need to flag your foot, or swap hands, or press on a sloper just enough. It's like solving a crossword puzzle with your body.

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