jest: (climbing-gear)
Jest ([personal profile] jest) wrote in [community profile] disobey_gravity2010-06-16 03:19 pm
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Campus Boards, yay or nay?

Does anybody here have any experience on a campus board? How is it? I only get to go climbing once a week so I'm looking for a way to train on the days when I'm not climbing. A campus board looks fairly easy to build, but I'm not sure it would be much of an improvement over simply falling hanging off door frames by my fingertips. *g*
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)

[personal profile] rydra_wong 2010-06-16 02:57 pm (UTC)(link)
The advice I've heard is not even to think about campus-ing until you're climbing at a pretty advanced level (say V6 or above if you're bouldering), or your tendons will go ping.

However, if you've been climbing for a year or so, you could try a fingerboard. I haven't dared buy one yet, but I've got a set of rock rings, which are pretty nifty.

And one of the best climbers in the UK, Dave MacLeod of the clan Macleod, just has a strip of wood nailed up over a door-frame, which he hangs off while watching TV. So you may be on the right track already *g*.