rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
There is now a quickdraw hanging in my kitchen, next to the kettle. And a short length of rope (anchored to a window handle at its bottom end).

So every time I make a cup of coffee, I can practice clipping a good few times before the kettle boils (worst by a long way: left hand, left-facing gate).

I drink a lot of coffee.

There's also an HMS karabiner so that if I'm feeling really brave, I can work my new ambition of being able to tie a clove-hitch one-handed.

Anyone else have weird/inventive training tricks or home/office modifications?
niqaeli: cat with arizona flag in the background (Default)
[personal profile] niqaeli
I could probably google this, but I figured I'd ask around here first!

For reasons that are not actually immediately climbing-related (though I do want to get more into climbing at a point where I can afford to tear my hands up), I'm in desperate need of conditioning exercises for forearms and hand grip. And I could not think of anyone who would know such conditioining exercise *better* than climbers. (All other athletic endeavours I've been into before didn't particularly value strength in those areas.)

So! What are your favourite ones? Is there any equipment you find particularly useful?
rydra_wong: Tight shot of a woman's back (Krista of stumptuous) as she does a pull-up. (strength -- pull-up)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
I posted a write-up of my current workout routine in [community profile] lifting_heavy_things.

Linking here as it's focused on building strength for climbing and correcting muscular imbalances during the enforced time off while I recover from my Lisfranc injury, so I thought it might be of interest.
rydra_wong: "i like to climb alot". The xkcd stick figure climbs up the side of Hyperbole and a Half's yak-like "alot." (climbing -- alot)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
(Because I've been promising to write this post up for at least two years.)

I can honestly say that a solid 90% of everything I know about climbing technique, I got from the first two of these resources, and the third may be the single wisest book I've found about training. Since I keep reccing them to all and sundry, I thought I ought to explain why.

The Self-Coached Climber by Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter (book, with accompanying DVD)

On at least one climbing forum, "Read the Self-Coached Climber" has become the equivalent of "read the FAQ, n00b".

This is a very information-dense book with a lot of very solid advice. It starts with a focus on movement awareness, then breaks down the theory behind different climbing movements such as backstepping and flagging, explaining why they work in terms of centre of gravity and balance, with a range of suggested exercises for improving your skills and developing fluency.

The second half of the book focuses on training, discussing the physiology of climbing then breaking it down into aerobic endurance, anaerobic endurance, and power, with suggestions on training each and on putting together a training plan to meet your goals. As far as I know, all of this information is as accurate and state-of-the-art as anything in climbing training can be (i.e., given the lack of double-blind controlled trials, mostly based on anecdata — but this is as solid as it gets).

Cut for length )
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Dave MacLeod, who knows his stuff, has some interesting thoughts on planning your training for the next year.

What are your thoughts? Do you pick climbing goals or make resolutions about what you want to do? Or do you explore and see what happens? Or a bit of both?

If you've got any climbing-related New Year's resolutions, share them in the comments.
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
I just did my first ever fingerboard training* session.

While watching Cliffhanger on video.

I feel that irony is good for the tendons.

*By "training" I mean "hanging for several seconds at a time off the largest holds, whimpering." My finger strength is not l33t, so I am taking it gently.
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
And I was given one of these.

You can all be jealous of me now.
jest: (climbing-gear)
[personal profile] jest
Does anybody here have any experience on a campus board? How is it? I only get to go climbing once a week so I'm looking for a way to train on the days when I'm not climbing. A campus board looks fairly easy to build, but I'm not sure it would be much of an improvement over simply falling hanging off door frames by my fingertips. *g*
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Strength training: bizarre yet awesome exercises you may not know about, part II

I'm linking this here because it's focused on forearm and grip strength and rehabbing elbow tendons, and thus potentially relevant to climbers.

(And if anyone has any other exercises they've found useful in those respects, please let me know!)
juliet: (waveform tree)
[personal profile] juliet
I'm increasingly aware when climbing that one of the things causing me difficulty is that I don't have much upper body strength.

This was particularly brought home today, at the Arch, when I read the instructions about how to use their thing-above-a-doorframe-you-hang-on. "Hang with your arms slightly bent for 5 seconds", it said. I couldn't pull myself up sufficiently to do this. (I don't do quite as badly as this when actually climbing; but I've never been able to, say, do a pull-up.)

Will this just improve as I carry on climbing (she asks hopefully; to be fair, it has improved already), or should I be doing something more specific? Any suggestions? Things I can do at home would be good (if I pull myself up on the doorframe, will I hurt the doorframe?) as currently it is just too hideously embarrassing to try anything like that in public.

At least my legs are OK (lots of cycling!).

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