rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
An interesting article on spotting at indoor bouldering walls, and whether (and when) it's actually necessary:

The Climbing Business Journal: Should You Spot? Maybe Not.

It arrives at pretty much the same conclusion my bouldering friends and I seem to have: indoors, with a fully matted floor, you generally only need spotters for unusual moves where (for example) you might fall head-first or with a limb wedged in place.

(Outdoors, we have come up with complex multiple-spotter arrangements: one person here, one there to cover that rock, you drag the second mat round as soon as they've traversed across ...)
wpadmirer: (Default)
[personal profile] wpadmirer
My rock gym has two of the True Blue auto-belay devices. (See this website for more information on the device itself: http://www.autobelay.com/).

The check-off was simple:

1) Do not let go of the tether because it will shoot up to the device and then have to be retrieved;
2) Do not go around corners or try to go up a wall not directly below the device; and
3) When lowering yourself, do not bounce along the wall because it makes the machine bang against the wall and might damage it.

Yep, that was pretty much it for instruction.

I was given a harness that had a top loop rather than using my Camp harness which has a side loop. the reason for this is that the carabiner attached to the tether needs to go into the harness so it is vertical. The harness was a Camp Topaz Plus.

Climbing with the tether is just like climbing with a rope, except that you can't yell "take" and get a rest. In fact, if you let go of the wall with your hands and lean back, you go into freefall for a couple of seconds and then the machine begins to lower you. Once you're being lowered, it doesn't stop. You just go right to the ground.

Other than being startled by the freefall the first time, I found the lowering to be fine. It's slower than I usually do on a rope, and I could either walk down or just keep one foot against the wall lightly and let it lower me. It was a gentle drop.

What was exhausting was realizing that I could climb up again and again and again, without the usual break of belaying for my partner. After an hour I was sweaty and panting. This morning my left shoulder and elbow are sore from climbing so much.

I miss two things:

1) the social aspect of having a partner - there was no chatter, no laughter, no flipping anyone off who was talking smack about my climbing or lack thereof; and
2) the ability to stop, lean back on the rope and rest for a moment while I tried to figure out how to make a move on a route.

I ended up abandoning the formal routes after a while and just climbed. I tried to make all kinds of weird moves on the tether and found it worked fine. No matter what I did, it held me, the tension stayed steady and I felt safe.

So I guess I will be climbing using the auto-belay. I think I might actually get stronger on it quicker, because I don't have the luxury of standing around and bullshitting after I have just climbed.
sixbeforelunch: vala and teal'c arm wrestling, no text (sg1 - teal'c/vala: *arm wrestling*)
[personal profile] sixbeforelunch
I went climbing tonight and it was AWESOME!

It's been years since I got on the wall, and I was nervous that it wouldn't be fun because of the inevitable lack of strength and skill, but it was awesome. Climbers are chill and friendly and my climbing partner was great, as was her friend. Both of them gave me good tips as I re-learned how to belay, and my epic fail at the overhang was met with 'if you're that tired, you've had a good climbing day.'

I so so so want to find a way to get back into regular climbing. I think I can work it into my overstuffed schedule on Sunday nights. I hope.
aella_irene: (Default)
[personal profile] aella_irene
I'm interested in learning to climb, and based in Central London. I'm just around the corner from West One", and a friend has recommended Castle Climbing as being excellent, and woman friendly. I am considering taking the introductory course at Castle Climbing, then going to West 1. (Castle Climbing's introductory course is significantly cheaper, but it is also a slog over there, while West 1 is two minutes away). Would this be considered rude? And are there other gyms which members would recommend? Has anyone heard anything about either gym?

Thank you.
miss_s_b: (Hobby: Climbing)
[personal profile] miss_s_b
... well, it's open now, and I've actually been.

Two posts about it at my DW, here and here.

:D

OMG YAY!

Jan. 13th, 2011 06:22 pm
miss_s_b: (Hobby: Climbing)
[personal profile] miss_s_b
There have been rumours for a long time that the old flour mill silos in town were going to be turned into a climbing wall. Dad and I thought it would be very nice, but it was all a bit pie in the sky... Well, it seems not. It seems that planning permission has been granted, work starts on Monday, and they're hoping to have it open in MARCH! How cool is that?

I am literally bouncing with excitement about this. It's apparently going to be one of the best walls IN EUROPE and it will be within walking distance of my house.

SQUEEEEEEEEEE!

http://www.rokt.co.uk/index.htm
http://twitter.com/roktclimbinggym
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=116057135099510#!/group.php?gid=116057135099510&ref=ts

((X-posted personal blog and [community profile] disobey_gravity))
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
My favourite climbing wall, the Arch near London Bridge, has expanded into the railway arch next door; they opened the new section today. I promised [personal profile] juliet a write-up, so here goes.

Cut because this is probably not going to be of interest to anyone outside London, unless they're particularly entertained by hearing about my adventures.

Also cut because possibly I may have had too much espresso and am babbling )
amaliedageek: (Default)
[personal profile] amaliedageek
I've been doing Pilates Reformer at least four times a week for the last six months; a change in focus on the part of the studio has left me looking for a new challenge. My son and his friends have been bouldering and top-rope climbing since middle school and have been trying to get me on the wall for years; I have some issues to work through (a friend died while free-climbing in the canyons not far from here), but 20+ years is doubtless long enough to let the fear have its way.

I would welcome the community's suggestions: what would recommend a place to you, or send you screaming for the exits?
nanila: (tachikoma: celebratory)
[personal profile] nanila
I went climbing last night for the first time in six years. Since I moved to the UK, I haven't been once. It was additionally exciting since I got to introduce it to my boyfriend, who's never been climbing before.

He liked it enough to contemplate buying shoes today and to suggest we return next week. Additionally, I managed to onsight a V0 (did I mention it's been six years?) and was pleased that I could still get round overhangs - with a lot of scrabbling, but still. Success! Hurrah!
replacementparts: Smiling dragon, optimism, bright (Default)
[personal profile] replacementparts
Hello, all.

I haven't gone rock climbing in years, and then only as a special occasion, once a year or so around middle school age. So I'm essentially a complete noob.

I'm interested in joining these gyms in the CA bay area. Specifically I'd be going to Great Western Power Company and Ironworks, and probably some visits to Mission Cliffs, too. Anyone here use those gyms? They look really nice from the website but I haven't gotten to go check them out yet.

Any tips to keep in mind for someone just starting out?
cryptolect: Intrepid girl adventurer (Default)
[personal profile] cryptolect
Following rydra_wong's great post at her journal about how you probably can climb even if you don't think you can (http://rydra-wong.dreamwidth.org/234949.html) I decided to give it a go. I booked an introductory session - just a 30 minute taster. I really wasn't sure what to expect, so I've described it below (in some excruciating detail) in case that's helpful to any of you deciding whether to try it out.
Read more... )

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