rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Ashima Shiraishi and Kai Lightner visit Flatanger cave in Norway.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: VICE Sports profile of Ashima Shiraishi.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Ciudad de Dios, 9a/+, by Ashima

My impression is that this is a "slash grade", where it's widely accepted as between the grades; it was cited as "9a/+" when Magnus Midtbø and Jakob Schubert did it.

I believe Josune Bereziartu's still the only other female person to have climbed 9a/+, so this is pretty monumental in itself, and confirms that she's climbing at an extraordinary level (even if the 9a+ on Open your mind direct doesn't stick).
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
No way this could wait until Friday ...

Open your mind direct, ~9a+, by Ashima Shiraishi

The route was previously graded at a "very solid" 9a, but then a hold broke; Shiraishi is the first person to climb it after this.

If the 9a+ grade sticks (which is a big if, since no-one else has climbed the route in this form, and there's also a mysterious tendency for hard routes climbed by women to experience sudden downgrades), then she's:

a) the only female person in the world (with the possible exception of Josune Bereziartu, who climbed a 9a/9a+) to have climbed this grade;

b) the youngest person in the world ever to climb this grade, beating Adam Ondra by two years.

Even if it's "only" a 9a, that adds her to the very select six female people to have climbed 9a.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: The Cleverness of Youth, a short film about Ashima Shiraishi.
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Ashima Shiraishi goes bouldering in Colorado for the first time. And climbs V13, as she does.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Ashima Shiraishi (aged 12) has just climbed her fifth V13.

Rock and Ice report.

27 Crags report (with excellent photos).

Apparently she's now planning to have a look at Jade (currently V14, though it was originally graded V15).
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Ashima Shiraishi climbs Lucifer (5.14c) and Southern Smoke (5.14c)
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Ashima: Return of the Warrior Ninja Princess ("Warrior Ninja Princess" is the title fellow boulderer Jason Kehl's given her).
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Just in case anyone hasn't heard:

Ashima Shiraishi has climbed two 5.14cs in the Red River Gorge.

And flashed 5.14a.

And is still 11 years old.

DPM has pictures.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
MSN has a video piece on Ashima Shiraishi and her coach Obe Carrion:

Fifth grader climbs like a pro

ASHIMA

May. 13th, 2012 11:08 am
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The New York Times has a good article on (and interview with) Ashima Shiraishi:

Ashima Shiraishi, 11, Conquers Difficult Bouldering Climbs

There's also an interesting blog post which has caused some kerfuffle lately:

Ashima and Obe: Should We See Race/Class/Gender on the Rock? by Melissa Sexton

(Follow-up post here: An Ideological Mess or: How I Learned to Not Stop Worrying and Still Love Rock Climbing by Narinda Heng)
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Ashima Shiraishi sends Crown of Aragorn (V13).

This puts her among 3 or 4 women in the world who've climbed a V13 (there's some debate about the exact number, owing to argument about whether traverses count and exactly what grade particular problems are, not to mention the mysterious way in which problems or routes often suddenly get downgraded after a woman does them).

Ashima Shiraishi is 10 years old.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Ashima Shiraishi, aged 9, continues to be more hardcore than everyone. Though you can find out more about the very formidable Brooke Rabotou (also 9) in this profile (among other things, she's the daughter of Robyn Erbesfield, which explains that slightly creepy remark about bloodlines).
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong
Boulderer Ashima Shiraishi (who's now aged 10) has been tearing up the sport climbing scene in Kentucky, climbing numerous 5.13s, including one 5.13d and a 5.13b onsight.

Here's an interview with her where she discusses getting started bouldering in Central Park, and having to use different beta on Power of Silence from climbers who are over 4 foot tall.

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