rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-06-23 11:15 am
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Friday glee has a little adventure

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: totally stealing from UKC, but this vid of James Pearson's new E10 7a really is great.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-06-16 10:40 am
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Friday glee knows everyone else is posting this too but oh well

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Boulder Classics: Midnight Lightning
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-06-09 10:31 am
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Friday glee forgot to mention the two-hour approach and the leeches

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: James Pearson, Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and Toru Nakajima explore the island of Kinkasan.
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-06-02 08:48 am
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Friday glee thinks this one's the hardest

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Lizzy Asher's Highball Birthday Challenge.
mad_m: (2)
[personal profile] mad_m2017-05-31 11:25 am

Awareness at the crag

Hi all, just a reminder to be wary when at the crag and climbing close to other groups. This weekend, my leader popped off an enormous rock on the second pitch on Tropicana at Rumney Rocks, NH. Another pair was climbing the first pitch as we were setting up for our second pitch, and were still at the base of the crag when the rock flew off and missed them by 10 feet.

Please excuse me: Holy Shit. It's a relief that the rock wasn't where the bolt was, but it all happened so fast that my leader can't recall whether it was a hand pull or a foot push that loosened it and all I remember is an enormous rock sailing off the cliff and thankfully thinking nobody was below... but there was, and it feels like mere luck that they did not get crushed.

Tropicana is a popular route and might be getting a little run out. Here is a brief account as posted by the other lead, on Mountain Project.

rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-05-26 10:56 am
Entry tags:

Friday glee could do with some sticky damp

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: David Fitzgerald takes on the mighty Voyager.
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-05-19 11:18 am
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Friday glee is all about the heelhooks

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: these young gentlemen attempt to find UK-style bouldering in Massachusetts -- a valiant effort, but I feel lacking the pervasive greyness, drizzle, and whinging needed for true authenticity, though there are some good efforts at '80s-style Christmas jumpers in the second half.
rydra_wong: "i like to climb alot". The xkcd stick figure climbs up the side of Hyperbole and a Half's yak-like "alot." (climbing -- alot)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-05-12 09:08 am
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Friday glee walks to the blast shelter near the rusty pipe

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Ian Lloyd-Jones has created a new exploratory journey through the Llanberis slate quarries -- Hobbits, Ladders and Tunnels.

Route description here -- as it says, it's not a "conventional climbing experience", and doesn't involve much climbing per se, but I think falls within the remit of strange adventurous activities practiced by climbers ...
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-05-05 09:33 am
Entry tags:

Friday glee knows it's possible

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Alex Megos on Fight Club.
mad_m: (6)
[personal profile] mad_m2017-05-01 07:56 am

Advantage-disadvantage?

Prusik loop v. sling?

Discuss.

I have not much of an opinion, but this came up in conversation with friends - advantages over one or the other, and if you had to carry only one, which would it be and why?
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-04-28 10:21 am
Entry tags:

Friday glee has floodlights

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: this half-hour film of Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki's bouldering trip to Bishop.
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-04-21 09:36 am
Entry tags:

Friday glee is chalk-deprived and emotional

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Wideboyz on Czech sandstone.
rydra_wong: "i like to climb alot". The xkcd stick figure climbs up the side of Hyperbole and a Half's yak-like "alot." (climbing -- alot)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-04-20 11:34 am
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Shiny objects

Let's have a thread of total self-indulgence, because I for one need it right now (general election oh god).

What are your all-time favourite pieces of climbing gear? What's that thing that you're ogling in the shops but haven't bought (yet)? Or, what's the thing that you've been mourning since they discontinued it?

Let's use "gear" in the most inclusive sense -- not just trad gear, but shoes, bouldering mats, quickdraws, the rucksack you can fit everything into or the lucky chalkbag.

Warnng: I may talk about pink tricams.
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-04-14 01:02 pm
Entry tags:

Friday glee spends years under a rock in the woods

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Nalle Hukkataival's Lappnor Project -- V17? (note: the video may be up for a limited number of days, so watch it while you can).
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-04-07 10:17 am
Entry tags:

Friday glee is like a barndoor on a flagpole

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Nick Martino has a scary scary project on Utah sandstone.
rydra_wong: stick figure on an indoor climbing wall -- base image taken from the webcomic xkcd (climbing -- xkcd)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-04-01 08:43 am
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A scary scary object lesson on taut ropes and rock edges

UKC: Elder Statesman and a ground fall for Michele Caminati

Note: you don't see him deck, just fall out of shot (I only watched it after finding this out), and Caminati requested that it be posted so people could learn from his misfortune. 16 seconds of slo-mo footage of exactly what happened to the rope as it's pulled against the arete.

Stay safe, everyone.
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-03-31 09:49 am
Entry tags:

Friday glee is showing up the blokes

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Emma Twyford in North Wales(note: I think this may only be up for a limited time, so catch it while you can).
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-03-24 08:54 am
Entry tags:

Friday glee is taped up

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: this classic Henry Barber splitter crack.
rydra_wong: Angelica Lind stretches for a hold during a bouldering competition (climbing -- reach)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-03-17 10:10 am
Entry tags:

Friday glee suspects this is the first route named after a fingerboard

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: Helmut Kotter on Beastmaker (9a/9a+).
rydra_wong: "i like to climb alot". The xkcd stick figure climbs up the side of Hyperbole and a Half's yak-like "alot." (climbing -- alot)
[personal profile] rydra_wong2017-03-10 10:05 am
Entry tags:

Friday glee is all aloooooooone

The Friday post of glee is where you get to tell us about your climbing-related happiness this week.

It can be a new achievement or adventure, or just that you climbed and had fun; it can be that your favourite climbing wall is expanding or that you bought new rock shoes or that you found a cool ice-climbing vid on YouTube. No glee is too small -- or too big. Members are encouraged to cheer each other on and share the squee.

N.B. Please feel free to post your glee on any day of the week; the Friday glee is just to get the ball rolling.

To enhance this week's glee: a preview of Pete Whittaker rope-soloing El Cap.